John F. Adams.

The hall mirror here described is designed as a companion piece to the settle given in the March number of this magazine. The frame should be made of selected quartered oak 7/8" thick and 4" wide. Two pieces 48" long and two pieces 32" long are required. The joints are made by halving, care being taken to make them a snug fit and perfectly square. The rabbet or recess on the inside edges for the mirror may easily be made with a backsaw. They are 1/2" wide and \" deep. Mark the line to be sawed; bore a hole at each end with a 1/4" bit. Then lightly nail a thin 1/2" square strip of wood on each side of the line, having just room enough between them for inserting the blade of the saw. Before beginning to saw, mark on the saw blade, with a pencil, a line showing where the saw will be when the right depth of cut has been made. When one cut has been made, take off the strip and repeat the process for the other cut. Smooth up any rough places with a sharp chisel or rabbet plane, and see that the depth is uniform, so that the mirror will rest evenly at all parts. The ends of the long pieces extend on the sides 21/4", and the side pieces extend 2" at top and bottom, as shown in the illustration.

Old Dutch Furniture VI Hall Mirror 222

Fasten the joints together with glue and by J" screws from the back, countersinking the heads. Bore holes for the screws, using care not to bore through to the front of the frame. Put the screws in the corners of the joints, so as to leave a clear space for attaching the hat-hooks or other ornaments. A mirror of this size is quite heavy, necessitating a strong frame to securely hold it. The size is 36" long and 21" wide. If desired, the upright pieces may be made 3" longer, allowing 3" greater width for the mirror. The backing is made of thick picture-frame backing or any wood \" thick, and should be securely nailed in. A piece of thick manilla paper is put between the mirror and the backing, to prevent scratching the former.

The hat-hooks are put one in each corner, and may be of brass or black iron, the latter being most in harmony with the design, though probably difficult to obtain in many places. In the center of the side pieces candle brackets may be added and escutcheon ornaments in other places, as may suit the fancy. Two brass pieces, with screw holes for attaching to the wall, are firmly screwed to the back of the top piece and one to the bottom piece, so that the weight of coats will not cause it to fall. The frame is finished with stain to match the settle. If the work is well done, a substantial and quite ornamental piece of furniture will result.

An electrical fly-trap has been patented by an inventive genius residing in Providence, R. I., Mr. Edwin R. Greene, by name. A frame is employed which is constructed of insulating material, and comprises a central longitudinal plate and top and bottom bars, the whole being connected by intermediate strips. Around this frame are wound sets of positive and negative wires spaced a slight distance apart to form a grid, the spaces between the wires being such that should a fly alight on the grid it will necessarily touch two wires. Bait is placed upon the center plate within the grid, and the arrangement is connected up with an electric current. A horizontal platform is suspended beneath the trap to catch the flies that may be electrocuted. The operation of the device will be apparent. The insects attracted by the bait within the grid will alight upon the wires and be electrocuted, whereupon they will drop down upon the horizontal platform, this platform being so arranged that it may be cleaned as often as desired.