While not a new game, it is only during the last two seasons that table tennis has become well known and generally played in this country. Probably no indoor game affords more healthy exercise, together with sustained interest, than does this one. As the necessary parts, with the exception of the balls, are easily and cheaply made, every one desmng to play the game may do so at little expense. The balls may be obtained from any dealer of sporting goods at 50 to 75 cents per dozen. One-half dozen will last for quite a long time.

The dining-room table will answer nicely provided the leaves are level. A cover of billiard cloth may be used if desired, but the bare board is better. The required space is 9' long and 5' wide, and the height should be about 2' 6". The rules of the game are the same as for lawn tennis, with the exceptions that no volleying is allowed, and the service should be underhand and from behind the table.

If a dining-room table is not available, a table can be made after the plan of a drawing-board and in two sections. Wide matched pine or white-wood will be the most suitable, the division coming in the center, where the net crosses. The joints of the boards should be carefully smoothed, all the cracks puttied, and then a coating of dull, dark paint applied. The service lines are then painted across each half, parallel with the ends and 81" from the center. These should be 1/2" wide and are connected by a center line, the same width and parallel with the sides. This divides the table in sections of the same shape as for lawn tennis.

If a dining-room table is used, the divisions can be made with tape, the end of which may be temporarily fastened onto the underside of the table top with small tacks. If the table is wider than necessary, side tapes should be placed so that the playing width will measure only 5'.

The battledores or rackets are made of white-wood in the shape shown in Fig. 1. They are §" thick, 7" long and 5" or 51/2" wide. The handles are built up by gluing on extra pieces of the same thickness, and then worked out round or octagonal as preferred. The body should be perfectly flat and smooth. A coating of thin shellac will give a good finish. After the shellac is dry, smooth the body with fine sandpaper. The supports for the net are shown in Fig. 2. The base is 1/2" thick, the bottom being covered with leather or felt, which is glued on, to prevent scratching the surface of the table. The post is a round piece of wood 7/8" in diameter and 8" high, firmly set in a hole in the base. An old broom handle can be cut up for posts. One inch above the base a hole 1/8" in diameter is bored through to receive the lower cord of the net. Another hole 6" above the base receives the top cord. A screw-hook on the outside of the post is used for fastening the ends of the net cords. Two cheap iron or wood clamps are used to hold the posts firmly to the table during the game.

The net, which is 5' long and 61/2" wide, is made of bobbinet, or any coarse curtain lace. The top is bound with inch-wide tape, and the bottom finished with a narrow hem through which a heavy cord is drawn. Also draw a heavy cord through the tape at the top, leaving ends on each cord long enough for tying to the posts. The net is supported by the cords, and the* top edge should be 61/2" above the table. This height may be varied between 5" and 7"/.

Rules of Ping-Pong.

1. The game is for two players. They shall stand one at each end of the table. The player who first delivers the ball shall be called the server, and the other the striker-out.

2. The server shall stand behind the end and within the limits of the width of the table.

3. The service shall be strictly underhand, and from behind the table; that is to say, at the time of striking the ball the racket may not be over the table, and no part of the racket, except the handle, may be above the waist.

4. The ball served must drop on the table top beyond the net, and is then in play. If it drops into the net or off the table, it is called a " fault," and counts to the striker-out.

5. There is no second service, except when the ball touches the net or posts in passing over and drops on the table, beyond the net, when it is called "a let," and another service is allowed.

6. If the ball in play strikes any object above or around the table before it drops on the table (net or posts excepted), it counts against the striker.

7. The server wins a stroke if the striker-out fails to return the service, or the ball in play.

8. The striker-out wins a stroke if the server serves a "fault" or fails to return the ball in play, or returns the ball in play so'that it falls off the table.

Scoring.

On either player winning his first stroke, the score is called 15 for that player; on either player winning his second stroke, the score is called 30 for that player ; on either player winning his third stroke, the score is called 40 for that player; and the fourth stroke won by either player is scored game for that player, except as below.

If both players have won three strokes (40 all) the score is called "deuce," and the next stroke won by either player is scored "advantage" to that player. If the same player win the next stroke, he wins the game ; if he loses the next stroke, the score is again called "deuce," and so on until either player wins the two strokes immediately following the score of deuce, when the game is scored for that player. The player who first wins six games wins a set.