This section is from the book "Amateur Work Magazine Vol3". Also available from Amazon: Amateur Work.
The bulkhead is of 5-8" tongued and grooved sheathing, and is nailed at its upper edge to a strip nailed on the under side of the deck beam; cleats are fastened to the plank to take the lower ends of the boards. The boards should be shaped to fit to the plank as closely as possible and make a neat joint. An opening should be left, and fitted with a hinged door, as the space is valuable for storage. There will also be a bulkhead at the after end of the standing room, but it cannot be fitted until after the engine has been installed.
The rudder and skeg are of metal, the plate is about 3-16" or 14" thick, about 15" wide and 19" deep, cut to the shape of Fig. 2. The stock is 1" diameter, and of the proper length measured from the boat. It will be best to have a blacksmith get out the stock as it requires to be heated and split to allow the insertion, of the plate; holes are then drilled and the two riveted together. The lower end has a 1-4" hole for a split pin and the upper end is squared and has a 1-4" hole through also; the square part being about 1" long.
The skeg is of flat iron 2" x 1-2" shaped from the boat, the end being bent over as in Fig. 2 and bored to fit the lower end of the rudder stock. Both skeg and rudder ought to be galvanized if for use in salt water.
A cheaper way of making the rudder, although not as good is to use a piece of 1" gas pipe for the stock; which is drilled with several 3-8" holes. The body of the rudder is made up of 1" stock which is bored with 3-8" holes to correspond; iron rods are then driven through all and the ends headed over. The lower end has a piece of rod welded or riveted in with the 1-4" hole before mentioned, and the upper end has a 3-8" hole for a pin through the tiller. This makes a very good rudder if well made, and is much cheaper than the other, and easier to make. The sleeve shown is put in to make a tight joint where the stock goes through the stern board. It is a piece of pipe about 8" long, a loose fit for the rudder stock and preferably threaded. The tiller should be about 18" long, with a square hole to fit the top of the rudder stock and a hole in the small end for the wheel ropes. It may be cast from a rough pattern, the hole drilled and then filed square, or it may be purchased from a dealer in launch outfits.
In setting the rudder in place the sleeve is first set by boring through the stern board. In order to bore at the required angle a piece of board can be nailed both inside and outside; to enable the bit to be started square. The sleeve is then screwed into place and the outside block split off; the inside one would best be left to steady the sleeve. It should be so adjusted that the tiller will rest on the top of the sleeve with a washer between and take the weight of the rudder. The tiller should be a close fit on the square end of the rudder, and a pin put through the hole above the tiller. The skeg is so shaped and adjusted that it supports the rudder and allows it to swing freely. The rudder should not be put in place permanently until after the engine has been installed. A locker is to be constructed on each side of the engine, about a foot wide, and at about the height of the seats. One of these will accommodate the batteries, spark coil, etc., and the other can be used for tools, etc.
The steering wheel can be placed either in the forward end of the standing room or on the 6ide, just forward of the engine, or, if desired, two may be used. The wheel is fitted with a drum about 4" diameter and 5" long and can be purchased complete if desired.
Pulleys are fastened to each side of the boat just opposite the wheel, and about 3" aft of the hole in the tiller, to take the tiller ropes. For these ropes either a small wire rope or braided line can be used. Holes are bored in the tops of the moulds just large enough to allow it to pass. Four or five turns are taken around the wheel, and the ends made fast to the hole in the tiller. A very simple arrangement is a lever pivoted vertically just forward of the engine and extending about 8" above the wash rail; the steering ropes are connected to it and by moving it forward or back the rudder is controlled.
The hole for the shaft can be bored about 1 1-4" diameter. It must line up with the bed and be in the middle of the deadwood P. Specific directions can hardly be given for this work, but it will probably be well to bore from the outside, making first only a small hole. By drawing a wire through the hole and stretching the end out over the bed, the direction can be noted and any change in direction made in boring the full sized hole. If the hole does not come quite right .t may be trimmed out on the inside end with a gouge.
A large heavy cleat, either of galvanized iron or wood .should be fastened on the forward deck with bolts, for making fast the mooring line, and a similar one on the after deck for towing and similar uses. These cleats should point fore and aft, and should be strongly bolted to the beams. It is also a good idea to fit under the corner of each plank for the space of about 10', amidships, a piece of quarter round moulding. This protects the corners of the plank, and presents a rather evener surface.
The hull is to be smoothed down with sandpaper, all nail holes and cracks filled with putty and painted with two coats inside and three outside. The wash rail and other bright parts are covered with two coats of best spar varnish. If for use in salt water, the bottom up to about 2" above the water line should be covered with some form of anti-fouling preparation. The last coat of paint should not be put on until the engine has been installed and the boat is ready for the wacer.
These directions are supposed to complete the construction of the hull, except so far as the individual builder sees fit to arrange for himself. The installation and fitting out of the engine will be described in the next and last chapter.
Note - For the convenience of those who may wish to purchase their engine in the fall, and thus take advantage of lower prices then prevailing, the writer would say that the power recommended is about 2 or 2 1-2 H. P. A 1 1-2 H. P. engine can be used if high speed is not desired, but a 2 or 2 1-2 H. P will be found to be better in every way. In case a 2 1-2 H. P. size is not obtainable in the make desired, a 3 H. P. engine will not be out of place, and will make a very powerful boat. As many manufacturers rate the capacity of their engines differently, purchaser will be obliged to consider the dimensions of engines when making comparisons of power.