Carl H. Clark.

This dory is of the usual type used for sailing. The dimensions 18 ft. long by 5 ft. wide, make a boat which, while not very heavy has still enough stability to carry sail well and be safe.

The method of building is very nearly the same as that followed in building the power dory already described, and the directions there contained will be found of much use in building this boat.

The outlines of the moulds are to be taken from the cuts, which are to the scale shown below the outlines of the moulds. The bottom is of oak 1 1/4" thick, made up of several widths, if necessary. The necessary dimensions for the bottom are given, so that the outline can easily be drawn. The joints in the bottom should be close on the inside an d open about 1/8" outside for calking; the several pieces are fastened together with cleats 1 1/2" square, taking care not to place any where the moulds or bent frames are to go later.

The stem is '2" thick, and if a natural crook cannot be obtained, should have the grain run diagonally, so as to have as little cross grain as possible; in this case, as before, a false stem is put on later; the inner stem being the only one put into place at present. It is fastened to the forward end of the bottom with galvanized boat nails or rivets, care being taken to have it point straight fore and aft, and at the proper slant.

The stern board is laid out from the outline given. In transferring lengths from the drawing the distance to be measured can be taken either with dividers or marked upon the edge of a card and laid on the scale of feet and inches, and the length read off. This length is then laid off full size with a rule ; by taking a series of points any outline of moulds, stern, sternboard, etc., can be laid out. The sternboard is of 1" oak and is held in place by the stern knee, which is cut from 1 1/2" stock with the grain running the long way. It is fastened with galvanized boat nails or small rivets. Considerable care should be taken to adjust the angles of the stern and the sternboard, as they have great effect upon the final shape of the boat. The sternboard also should have cleats nailed across the inside.

The bottom is next set up on blocks or horses at the proper height for easy working - the centre block should be 3" lower than the end ones, and the bottom sprung down that amount and held by shores from above.

The moulded frames are next gotten out of natural crook pieces, if possible, to the shape shown. These shapes can be obtained by measuring, using the scale provided. They are of 1" stock 8" wide, and extend to the centre line. There are two similar pieces for each frame and they are fastened together by a floor piece nailed on the back of the two parts, and a piece is also nailed across the tops. When the frames are completed they are fastened in place on the bottom, the under side being bevelled somewhat to allow them to set upright on the slightly sloping bottom. They are fastened from below with brass screws. A ribband should also be run around the tops to keep them in line. The edges of the moulds where the plank is to rest are to be bevelled off slightly to allow the plank to rest fairly upon them.

The plank is 5/8" thick, of either pine, cedar or cypress - cedar is rather to be preferred, but either of the others will serve. It should be obtained in boards as wide as possible, as there is considerable "spiling" or bend in the plank. The gar-board, or lowest streak, is put on first, about as before described; the edge of the bottom bevelled to the varying angle of the lower flat of the moulds. The flat up to the first knuckle should be divided up into two planks, making the lower one very narrow amidships and carrying the ends as wide as possible; this takes out a large amount of the "spiling" and makes the second plank much narrower and easier to fit. The lower planks will need to be in two lenghts with well-fitted joints. The operations of fitting the planks are about the same as in the power dory - the lap at the edges being 1 1/4".

The planks above should be put on in one piece if possible, but in any case, joints in adjacent planks should be well apart. The top streak should be carried 3/4" above the tops of the moulds to'admit the gunwale, and the lower edge of the top streak should be beaded. The planks at the stern are cut square across, even with the stem and the false stem fastened on the outside.

The gunwale is3"x3/4"and is bent around inside the lop streak and on the top of the moulds. It is tapered at the ends to about 2" to make it bend in more easily, and is fastened through the top streak with boat nails, and into the tops of the moulds with long nails. At the bow a breast hook is worked between them, and at the stern a knee is fastened to the sternboard.

Between each two moulds two binders, or light frames about l"'x5/8" are bent in, extending well on to the bottom. They are first well steamed and then forced well into the corners, to follow the planks as far as possible. They are fastened with nails clinched on the inside and by nails driven into the bottom.

The centre board slot is cut in the position shown on the plans, 1 1/4" wide and exactly in the centre of the boat. It should be noted that the uprights at the ends extend down through the bottom, and allowance must be made for them in cutting the slots. The uprights are 3"x1 1/2" fitted to the ends of the slot. The centreboard box is then built upon them. The joint between the box and the bottom must be carefully made to be tight. The lower board of the box should be of oak 1 1/4" thick, fastened to the bottom with heavy screws driven from below, with a layer of lead and a thread of cotton in the joint. The upper boards of the box can be of pine or other stock and should extend to the height of the seats. The top of the box is covered with a board length-wise. The centreboard is of 1 1/4" stock, the lower board being oak. It is of proper size to give an inch or so clearance all around and is through bolted with 3/8" iron rods. It is set into place and a 5/8" iron bolt put through for a pivot. At the after top end an eye is screwed in to take the rope to haul up and down, which rope passes out through a hole in the board covering the top of the box. If desired, a rod, such as is sold for the purpose, may be fitted to control the centre-board.