C. C. Brooks
Full size patterns for this boat may be obtained of the Brooks Bout Mfg. Ba., Grand Rapids, Mich.
The boat here described is a very popular design for inland ponds and lakes and sheltered bays on the sea-coast. It is very stiff in a squall, easily handled, and such a boat can be constructed by anyone of ordinary skill with woodworking tools. To those unused to sailing boats and wishing to make a start in this most pleasant sport, this design is recommended as being one of the best and safest which can be made.
Those parts requiring white oak, rock elm or fir are as follows: One piece 16 ft. long, 3 in. wide, 1 1/8 in. thick, for the two bent end pieces. One piece 6 ft. long, 12 in. wide, 1 1/8 thick, for the skeg, butt block, head ledge, stern post and spar step. One piece 12 ft. long, 6 in. wide, 3/4 in. thick, for center-board. Fifteen pieces 12 ft. long, 7/8 in. square, for ribs and deck beams, twenty-eight running feet of 3/4 in. half-round for fender wale. (Note. - Fir may be used for all parts excepting the two bent pieces that form the ends of of the boat.)
Of pine, cypress, cedar, fir or spruce, there is needed two pieces 14 ft. long, 17 in. wide, and one piece 12 ft. long and 15 in. wide, all 7/8 in. thick, for back-bone. (Note. - If you can get two pieces 18 ft. long and 17 in. wide, you can make the back-bone without splicing it. There will be enough waste lumber left from the backbone to make the cheek pieces. Two pieces 14 ft. long, 8 in. wide and 7/8 in. thick for sides. Two hundred and twenty-five surface feet 5/8 in. thick for planking, decking and coaming. Get this in 12, 14 or 16 ft. lengths and 12 in. or more wide. To make this 5/8 stock you can have 180 ft. (board measure) of 1 1/2 in. lumber resawed and dressed. One piece 16 ft. long, 3 in. square, for spar. One piece 18 ft. long, 2 1/2 in. squarefor boom. One piece 10 ft. long, 2 in. square, for gaff. (Note - Spruce makes the best timber for the spars.)
For hardware, obtain four pounds 1 5/8 in. clout nails for planking and decking. Two pounds 2 in. common wire nails for fastening plank to back-bone, ends and sides. One pound 8-penny casing nails for fastening ribs and deck-beams. Eight 4-in. wire spikes for fastening skeg. One package of two ounce tacks. Two and one-half dozen 1 1/2 in. No. 12 screws for cheek-pieces, back-bone and end pieces. Two dozen 1 1/4 in. No. 12 screws for fastening butt blocks to end pieces. Two dozen 1/4 in. carriage bolts, 3 in. long, for back-bone. One 1/2-in. carriage bolt, 4| in. long, for king-bolt for center-board. One pound spun calking cotton. Sandpaper, putty and paint.
To make the sail and rigging, get 33 yards of 6 or 7-ounce duck, 30 in. wide, for sail. If roped in hem, 61 ft. of cotton rope. If roped outside, 40 ft. of 1/4in. Russian bolt rope. (See instructions for making sail.) Forty feet of 1/4 in. wire rope rigging for stays. Three i in. pipeturnbackles, 8 in. long, with eye and shackle for stays. Six 4-in. mast hoops. One sheet traveler of 3/8-in. rod, 18 in. long. Five single 3/8-in. blocks, without beckets. Three single 3/8-in. blocks with beckets. Three 4-in. deck cleats. Two 1/4-in. eye bolts, 3 in long. Two 1/4-in. eye bolts, 3 in. long. Two wire staples, 2 1/2 in. long. One hundred and sixty-five feet of 3/8-in. manila rope for halyards and sheet. Thirty-five feet of 1/4-in. cotton rope for lacing on sail. Twenty feet of marlin-For the frame we recommend white oak, this being the best timber known for this purpose. If, however, suitable oak is not easily procurable, we would advise fir or rock elm as a very satisfactory frame timber. When purchasing the lumber it is not necessary to adhere to the dimensions given, but good judgment should be used in not making any of the parts too light.
The lumber in bill of material should be well seasoned. The oak for the end pieces should be straight grained and not kiln dried, as this injures its bending qualities. The lumber for planking should be of good, sound quality. A few sound, small knots may be Used, and thereby make a material saving in the cost of the lumber. In the bill we have given the dimensions to which you should have the lumber dressed. The bill of material gives the thickness of the lumber for each piece, the patterns give the shape. The bill also gives the size of the nails, screws or bolts used for the different fastenings. In building the boat, take up each step in the same order-as given in the instructions.
We assume that you are an amateur, and therefore give details that will appear unnecessaty to practical mechanics. One important point to the amateur is, keep your tools sharp and in good condition. One of the great faults of the novice is that he will attempt to use dull tools, resulting in rough work, which he attributes to his inexperience, while, in fact, a skilled mechanic could do no better under the same conditions. The amateur should not expect to understand every detail from simply reading the instructions. The points that now appear hazy will be plain when you are working on the actual construction.
A light, warm shop makes boat building pleasant-On one side have a work bench with plank top about 2 ft. 8 in. high and not less than 16 ft. long. Have a carpenter's vise at the left hand end. You will need a claw hammer, clinch iron, rip saw, cutting-off saw, smooth plane, block plane, screw driver, draw shave, ratchet bitstock, 1/4 in. bit for carriage bolts, a No. 6 German bit for the No 12 screws, a No. 2 German bit for the nails of planking, a brad awl for the decks, etc., a counter-sink and screw driver for bitstock, four iron clamp screws of five inch openings, a two-foot rule, plumb bob and line, and a one-half inch chisel.
Before driving a nail or screw, always first bore with a bit slightly smaller than the nail or screw, and countersink for the head of the screw. For No. 12 screws use No. 6 German bit. Before putting in a bolt always first bore with a bit same size as bolt. All bolts are driven from the outside in; that is their heads are always on outside of boat. A washer is always put un der all bolt nuts. A clinch iron (flat iron will do) is always held opposite or against all nails when they are driven or set.