John F. Adams

About every one, in these days of magazines, regularly receives several magazines, some of which are kept on file, and to which reference is made at frequent intervals. To such readers a stand like the one described will prove of great convenience, the addition of the two cupboards providing room for maga-zines of less attractive appearance. The design also makes it suitable for both books and magazines' and would be a nice addition to a boy's room, or for a student's room it would contain both books and papers required in study. The stock used throughout is | or 7/8 in. thick, except the panels, which are 1/4 in. thick. The two side pieces are 56 in. long and 19 in. wide. The pieces underneath the lower cupboard and above the upper one are 31 in. long and 13 in. wide. A moulding can be added around the top, as shown in the illustration, or it may be omitted, but as it adds to the appearance, should be put on if the maker has the time for it. A piece of 3 in. moulding 6 ft. 3 in. Jong will be required, as allowance must be made for the mitred corners.

A Magazine Cabinet 3

The front piece at the bottom is 31 in. long and 5 in. wide; the two ends are 13 in. long. The corner jointsshould be mitred. Ornamental openings are cut out as shown in the illustrations. The board between these pieces and the lower cupboard is nailed through with wire nails, and at the back a piece 3 in. wide is nailed under the flatboard to support the weight of the stand which is nailed to the platform just described.

A Magazine Cabinet 4

Four pieces 25 in. long and 8 1/2 in. wide are needed for the shelves, the one above the cupboard being 15 in. above the platform, the next shelf 10 in. above; the remaining shelf and the one under the upper cupboard are each 9 in. apart. The front edges of all the shelves are placed flush with the sides, leaving 1/2 in. at the back for the sheathing. The shelves are nailed in place through the sides. A stronger and more durable way of putting in the shelves, is to cut grooves 1/4 in. deep in the sides, in which case the shelves should be 25 1/2 in. long.

An additional shelf for.the lower cupboard is 25 in. long and 9 in. wide. After putting the frame together and adding the shelves, the back, of matched sbeath-ing, is put on, first attaching with screws strips 1 in. square to the platform board and top board, setting same in 1/2 in. The sheathing should be 55 in. long and enough pieces are needed to make up the width of 25 im.

The eight ornamental blocks at the bottom are then •cut out and nailed and glued in place. They are 7 in. long and 1 1/2 in. wide at the bottom. The eight similar pieces at the top are of the same size, and may be the same in shape. These can be cut out at the mill if patterns are provided with order, and this is recommended to those not having the use of a band saw, as sawing them out by hand means considerable hard work. The spacing is as follows: At the sides the two outside ones are 1/2 in. from the edge of the sides and the center one midway between these two. Those at the front are added to the sides, glueing them in place as well as nailing.

The upper cupboard is fitted with one, and the lower with two doors. They are all constructed after the same fashion of halved and mitred joints as follows: The rails are cutoff to the propermitre, planed smooth, and the stiles are then marked on the front face to the corresponding mitre. Both rails and stiles are then halved to a good fit, the overlapping parts of the stiles being at the back and not showing at the front. A rabbet is cut all around the inner edges to receive the panel. When finally cut and fitted, the joints are glued up and put between clamps until the glue is dry. The panels are then put in and fastened with small nails or screws. This method of putting in the panels gives a flat surface to the whole back of the door. Another way, if one has a grooving plane, is to cut grooves in the door frame and at the panel in the grooves, using stock for panels somewhat thinner than with the first method.

The dimensions for the doors areas follows: upper door, rails,25 in. long and 3 in. wide; stiles, 9 in. long and 3 in. wide; panel, 19 1/2 in. long and 3 1/2 in. wide. For the two lower doors, stiles, 15 in. long and 3 in. wide; rails 12 1/2 in. long and 4 in. wide; panel, 7 1/2 in. long and 4 in. wide; panel, 7 1/2 in. long and 7 in. wide. The illustration shows fittings of ornamental hinges, which should be of black iron, if same can be made or purchased, but as such fittings are not to be found on sale in most cities, oxidized brass ones may be substituted, in which case the reader can make them up rom strip brass if not readily purchased. The real hinges are of the ordinary kind, hung in the jamb of the door, the ornaments being separate pieces added after the wood has been fully finished. Nothing has been said about finish, this being the usual dark stain and a wax finish.