Photographers' Printing Frame Stand

When using developing papers it is always bothersome to build up books or small boxes to make a place to set the printing frame in front of the light. Details for making a small stand that is adjustable to any desired height are shown in the sketch. In Fig. 1 is shown the construction of the sliding holder. A piece of 1/4-in. gas pipe, A, is cut 1 in. long and fitted with a thumbscrew, B. The piece of pipe is soldered to the middle on the back side of a piece of metal that is about 4 by 4-1/2 in. with its lower edge turned up to form a small shelf as shown at C. The main part of the stand is made by inserting a 5/16-in. rod tightly into a block of hard maple wood that is 1 in. thick and 3-1/2 in. square (Fig 2). The pipe that is soldered to the metal support will slide up and down the rod and the thumbscrew can be set to hold it at the desired point. Adjustable to Any Height

Illustration: Adjustable to Any Height

Lubricating A Camera Shutter

An experienced photographer uses blacklead [graphite] for grooves about a camera or holder. A small quantity is rubbed well into the grooves and on the edges of shutters, that refuse to slide easily, with gratifying results. Care must be taken to allow no dust to settle in the holders, however.

Removing Iodine Stains

A good way to chemically remove iodine stains from the hands or linen is to wash the stains in a strong solution of hypo sulphite of sodium, known as "hypo," which is procurable at any photographic-supply dealer's or drug store.

There is no danger of using too strong a solution, but the best results are obtained with a mixture of 1 oz. of hypo to 2 oz. of water.

Alligator Photo Mounts

Rough alligator finished photograph mounts will not receive a good impression from a die. If a carbon paper is placed on the mounts before making the impression, a good clear imprint will be the result.

How To Mail Photographs

Cut a piece of cardboard 1 in. longer and 1 in. wider than the mount of the photograph and lay the picture on it in the center. This allows a 1/2-in. border on all sides of the photograph. Punch two holes 1 in. apart at A, B, C and D, Fig. 1, in the cardboard border close to the edge of the picture. Put a string up through the hole B, Fig. 2, then across the corner of the photograph and down through the hole C and up through hole D, then to E, etc., until the starting point A is reached, and tie the ends.

The photograph will not get damaged, if it is covered with tissue paper and placed with the face to the cardboard. The extension border of cardboard prevents the edges of the mount from being damaged and the corners from wearing. Both cardboard and photograph are wrapped together in paper, and the package is ready for mailing. --Contributed by Earl R. Hastings, Corinth, Vt. Back for Mailing Photo

Illustration: Back for Mailing Photo

Mounting Photographs In Plaster Plaques

Purchase a few pounds of plaster of paris from your local druggist and select a dish of the desired shape in which to make your cast. The size of the dish will depend on the size of the print to be mounted. Select the print you wish to mount, those on matte paper will work best, and after wetting, place it face down in the dish, press into place and remove all drops of water with a soft cloth. Be sure and have the print in the center of the dish. Earthen dishes will be found more convenient, although tin ones can be used with good success, says Photographic Times.

Mix same of the plaster in clear water so it will be a little thick. Enough plaster should. be mixed to cover the bottom of the dish about 1/2 in. thick. Pour the plaster into the dish over the print and allow to stand until it becomes quite hard. The cast can then be removed and the print should be fast to it. If the print or plaster is inclined to stick, take a knife and gently pry around the edges and it can be removed without breaking.

Prints of any size may be used by having the mold or dish large enough to leave a good margin. This is a very important point as it is the margin that adds richness to all prints. Platinum or blueprint papers work well, but any kind that will not stick may be used. After the plaster has thoroughly dried, any tint may be worked on the margin by the use of water colors; if blueprints are used, it is best to leave a plain white margin.