Already exaggerated features or undesirable lines of the face should not be accented by a pronounced repetition of the direction of these lines in the hat. For example, if there are heavy downward lines about the mouth, the brim of the hat should not repeat these lines (Fig. 112). Again, if the eyes slant up toward the outer corner, a hat with an abrupt upward curve of the brim should not be worn. The effect may be neutralized by the use of opposing lines. The opposition, however, must not be carried too far, because entire lack of harmony in line will produce the same effect as does strong parallelism of line. A person with a square face needs an irregular brim, because a straight brim only emphasizes by contrast the angles of the face. A round face or one of regular features requires the opposite treatment from the square face. A severe, straight brim or upstanding crown may be worn in this case. An oval face needs a curved, irregular line.

Rather long curves are most suitable. In order to be practicable, these suggestions necessitate that the hair be arranged to suit the face. Moreover, when buying a hat, one should be sure that it does not require a special arrangemerit of the hair to suit it; the hat should suit the customary arrangement of the hair. A softening line of hair should always come between the harsh edge of the hat and the forehead. From time to time extreme forms of hair-dressing come into vogue. A beautiful face may or may not be affected by them, but the peculiar types must avoid extremes in shape, whether in area or contour. Neither the round nor the narrow face should have the hair drawn back from the temples. The long oval head needs to have the hair done low in the back, while the person with a round face may wear the hair high.

Fig. 110

Fig. 110. - The prominent lines of the hat should harmonize with the lines of the face. If it is desirable to have the brim tilted it maybe bent as desired, but the crown should be kept squarely on the head.

Fig. 111

Fig. 111. - Correct placing of a turban shown by the heavy line.

Fig. 112

Fig. 112. - The outline or decoration of a hat should not repeat or parallel undesirable lines in the face. Similarity of line may accentuate either good or bad lines.

At its best, the hair grows around the face in a graceful line; but when this line is not attractive, the hair may be arranged to supply the deficiency. There is a legitimate use for false hair, if it serves to beautify the proportions and the contour of the head or to create fine surfaces, such as soft waving effects. Any arrangement of the hair that does not tend to augment the attractiveness of the face, such as extreme changes of contour, or fussy, kinky effects, is poor design and is in bad taste. For short, broad faces, both round and square, the form as a whole should be built high, as against wide, in shape. The hair should not be pressed close to the temples. The hair should not be brought low but should be kept away from the forehead except at the corners where the short oblique lines suggest softness of contour against the face. The square-faced person needs rounding contours in the hair-dressing; the round face needs crisp reverse curves in contour to counteract the round suggestions elsewhere.

For long, thin faces, the hair should be arranged to make the head appear as broad as possible, care being taken not to create too great a contrast, however, between the width of the hair and of the face, lest the hair serve merely as a frame to emphasize, rather than correct, the narrowness. The hair should be brought low both horizontally and obliquely. The space left between the oblique side lines, however, should not be too narrow. This would only emphasize the length of the face by introducing a long vertical line. The hair should never be piled high over a long, thin face.

The face that is more or less triangular needs the same treatment as the square face. This type should avoid oblique lines that are produced by parting the hair in the middle, because this repeats in exaggerated form the lower shape of the face. The head should not be unduly broadened in such a way as to create an extreme triangular shape.