For a dress or a skirt with a raised waist-line, a ribbed belting or a cambric belting stiffened with stays of featherbone should be used. This belting should be as wide as the distance above the waist-line at which the line of the skirt is desired to appear. If the belt is wide, it may be fitted with darts (Fig. 81). The darts may extend from one edge of the belting to the other, the greater depth, about 1/4 inch, being in the center of the belting, if one wishes the belt to extend slightly below the waistline. Or the dart may be taken deep at the top and allowed to taper to nothing at the bottom, if the entire belt is to drop below the waist-line. These darts should be on the side of the belt placed next to the body. The ends of the belting are then turned in and a sufficient number of hooks and eyes sewed on to hold the belt in good position. The hooks should be sewed to the right-hand end of the belt and on the wrong side, the bill of the hook being set 1/16 inch back from the end of the belting. The eyes should extend beyond the edge of the belting at the left-hand end the same distance that the hooks are slipped back. The two ends of the belt will exactly meet when it is hooked. The unfinished ends of the belting and the stitching holding the hooks and eyes in place is covered with a piece of taffeta seam-binding (Fig. 81); or if there is any excess material on each end it may be folded back 1/4 inch on the outside; then the folded edge should be brought up under the bill of the hook on one end and over the loop of the eyes on the other end and hemmed into place. This last method of finishing the belt is very substantial but makes a much thicker finish. The center front, the center back, and the sides of the belt should then be marked with colored thread in order to facilitate adjusting the garment on the figure.

Fig. 81

Fig. 81. - Method of making a foundation belt for a skirt or a dress. Two end finishes are shown.