This section is from the book "A Manual Of Home-Making", by Martha Van Rensselaer. Also available from Amazon: A Manual of Home-Making.
The fullness at the top of corset-covers, combinations, or gowns may be arranged by:
1. Gathering, (a). The neck may be finished with embroidery ribbon beading, and lace edge, the gathers set into the beading with a standing fell (page 373), and the lace whipped to the beading by hand, (b) The edge may be gathered twice, and finished with featherstitched finishing braid and lace edge or tatting, or with bias facing or binding which may be featherstitched by hand. (c) The neck may be finished in either of the ways just suggested without being gathered. It may be drawn up with tape or ribbon, (d) The edge of the garment may be rolled and gathered and whipped to lace beading and edge, (e) Wide lace edge may be appliqued to the garment on the line of the gathering, and finished with seam beading and a casing of either batiste or footing for ribbon.
2. Hand tucks. Hand tucks 1/16 inch wide and 2 1/2 to 3 inches long may be used in several groups or in one large group. Featherstitching, chainstitching, and lazy daisies may be used in simple designs between the groups of tucks. The neck may be finished with: (a) a French hem, embroidery, beading, and lace edge, (b) embroidery edging used as a facing and edge, (c) lace beading and edge, and lace insertion appliqued in a simple design, (d) a bias fold or finishing braid, (e) a wide lace edge appliqued to give a yoke effect, with a casing of footing or batiste, and entre-deux used between the casing and the lace.
3. Machine tucks. The same finishes may be used with machine tucks as with hand tucks, machine stitching taking the place of hand work wherever possible.
4. Smocking. Several rows of smocking may be used around the neck, or the smocking may be made in groups. The garment may be finished at the neck as for gathering.
5. Shirring. Several rows of gathering may be put in about 1/4 inch apart and the lines of gathering featherstitched or chainstitched with crochet cotton. Machine hemstitching may be used to make the gathers secure. The garment may be finished at the top as for gathering.
6. Eyelets. Eyelets may be embroidered at intervals about 1/2 or 3/4 inch below the neck line, and the fullness drawn up by a ribbon. The garment may be finished at the top with scalloping and French embroidery, or it may be rolled and have lace whipped to the edge.
7. Yokes. Fullness may be set into yokes with entre-deux, machine hemstitching, insertion, or beading. The neck of the yoke may be finished in any of the ways suggested, without fullness.
 
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