Examiner in Dressmaking, Tailoring, French Pattern Modelling, Millinery, and Plain Needlework of the Teachers in Training at the University College of South Wales and Monmouthshire, Cardiff, the London Technical Examination Centre, etc. Author of" Up-to-date Dresscutting and Drafting," also " The Practical Work of Dressmaking and Tailoring."

How to Open and Press the Seams - To Prepare the Coat for Fitting - Correcting the " Crease " of the Revers

Any rounded or sharp corners in revers, pockets, etc., should be treated in the same way as the seams.

When all the seams have been notched, open the centre-back seam, damp, and press it well with a moderately hot goose, on the wrong side, on a bare board. The turnings of the other seams, which are to be "lapped" (shown in the coat of the sketch, page 758), must not be separated and pressed open, but both turnings of the seams ("side body" and "side piece") should be turned the same way, towards the back, damped, and pressed on the wrong side. The work must now be turned right side uppermost, and the seams tacked down (about a quarter of an inch from the edge of the seam) right through the double turnings.

Work a row of machine-stitching down each of these seams, about three-eighths of an inch from the edge; this gives them the appearance of being " lapped."

The back of the coat can now be put aside until the fronts have been prepared for fitting. Join the "fronts" and "side-fronts" together; first pin the waist-lines, then carefully pin through all the tailor tacking above and below the waist. Tack the seams from the top downwards, remove the short threads of the tailor tacking and machine-stitch the seams. As these also are to be "lapped" seams, they must not be separated and pressed open, but both the turnings must be turned the same way towards the front. Tack them down on the right side (about a quarter of an inch from the edge of the seam) right through the double turnings; notch them well, damp and press them on the wrong side, then work a row of machine-stitching on the right side about three-eighths of an inch from the edge of each seam, to give it the " lapped ' appearance.

Prepare the Coat for Fitting:

To do this, pin and then tack the front and back shoulders together, on the right side. with the turnings of the seams outwards, with the "lapped" seams of the front and back exactly meeting. Pin, and then tack the under-arms, with the turnings outwards.

Try the coat on, pin it together quite evenly down the front, taking care that the waist lines meet, and pin the coat firmly at the waist at the centre-back to keep the back line even and well drawn down whilst fitting. Next fit the shoulder and underarm seams. The former should not be brought too far forward, or it will make the back appear round-shouldered. If any

Dre83 alteration is necessary at the shoulder, take out the tacking and correct it, but. in re-pinning it be careful not to alter the correct line of the shoulder, which should be slightly hollowed on the back and rounded on the front. If the coat is too tight across the chest, let it out at the under-arm seam.

Be careful to make it long-waisted enough. If it is too short, lower it from the shoulder; if too long, raise it at the shoulder, either at the front or back, or both if required.

N.B. - Only one side of the coat must be fitted (preferably the right side), the left side must be corrected from it, when the coat has been removed from the figure, by means of "tailor tacking." The position for the pocket, also the correct front line, or "front edge" of the coat, and the shape of the "revers," must be marked while the coat is still on the figure. Hold back the right front in a sloping line from the neck point of the shoulder to the front of the coat, and pin this fold down.

From it turn in and pin the material for the "front edge" of the coat, then, starting from the point where the bottom of the fold and the "front edge" meet, draw the shape and size the revers is to be.

The length to make the "roll collar" can now be ascertained by measuring from the centre back seam to just under the revers.

N.B. - This gives the length for half the collar only, and as there must not be a join in it, the canvas must be cut twice the length - i.e., if the measurement taken is 7 1/2 inches, the canvas must be cut 15 inches.

Remove the coat, cut one or two notches through the double turnings of the shoulder and under-arm seams, so that when the seams are undone and turned to the wrong side for stitching, the position may be correctly matched again by means of these notches.

Take a piece of tailor's chalk and make marks down each side of the shoulder and under-arm, exactly where the pins were placed when the seams were fitted; or over the line of tacking, if no alterations were made; then mark the edge of the fold which has been pinned back to form the revers, and the front edge of the coat.

Now take out all the pins and place the right front on the table; correct and perfect the lines for the shoulder and under-arm seams, draw a straight line with a square for the position of the pocket. Turn the front wrong side uppermost on the table, and correct the "crease" of the revers by drawing a straight line with the "tailor's square" from the neck point of the shoulder to the front of the coat. This line must exactly meet the front edge of the coat, so that the revers may turn over without showing any "break" in the line.

Put a pin through at this point; turn the front over to the right side, and draw a perfectly straight line from the pin to the bottom of the coat. This line gives the front edge.

Again turn the front wrong side uppermost, and from the pin draw a correct outline for the revers, which in the sketch has a perfectly straight edge, as in a man's coat.

When all the lines have been corrected, put the two fronts together, the right half uppermost, and "tailor tack" through all the chalk lines to the under half, slightly separate the pieces, and cut through the threads, turn the pieces over, again place them together, and "tailor tack" through the chalk lines that are on the other side, and cut the notches in the turnings of the second half to correspond to the first half; slightly separate the two fronts, and cut through the stitches.

Fold the back exactly down the centre seams, correct the lines for the under-arm and shoulder seams, "tailor tack" through to the under half, make the notches to correspond on the turnings, slightly separate the two halves, and cut through the stitches of the "tailor tacking." Put the back aside until the fronts are ready to be joined to it. Make the "flaps" and put in the pockets, according to the instructions given in the lessons in Parts 3 and 4.

Diagram 1. The front of coat before revers is turned back into position

Diagram 1. The front of coat before revers is turned back into position

When the pockets are finished and have been well pressed, put in the French canvas; it is better to do this over the knee with the left foot raised on a footstool.

Place the "seam to shoulder" of the canvas front on the knee, the turnings downwards, and place the "seam to shoulder" of the cloth front exactly over it, the turnings downwards. Pin and tack the seams together in this position, stretching the cloth well from the waist line upwards, and from the waist line downwards.

N.B. - The cloth must be stretched over the canvas as much as possible to avoid fulness, especially at the waist. Still holding the fronts over the knee, pin and tack the cloth perfectly smooth over the canvas, stretching it well upwards towards the shoulder and all over, except on the revers. N.b. - The canvas must only be slightly tacked on the revers, so that there may be no restraint in either the cloth or the canvas, when "rolling" it over the finger in "padding."

Next place the front on the table and tack through the "crease edge" of the revers - that is, the perfectly straight "tailor tacked " line on the cloth - through to the canvas; "crease" back this line, canvas uppermost, and press it sharply down with a hot iron, taking care not to stretch the edge, which is very easily done as it is on the cross.