Examiner in Dressmaking-tailoring.french Pattern Modelling, Plain Needlework and Millinery of the Teachers in Training at the University College of South Wales and Monmouthshire, Cardiff, the London Technical Examination Centre, etc. Author of "Up-to-date Dresscutttng and Drafting," also"the Practical

Work of Dressmaking and Tailoring."

To Make the Sleeves for the Shirt-preparing the Cuff-attaching the Cuff to the Sleeve-putting in the Sleeve - Making the Buttonholes - The Sewing on of Buttons

Fold one piece of the material for the sleeves, right side out, with the two edges for the seam perfectly level, as shown in Diagram I. Pin, tack, and then run, or machine-stitch, down the seam about an eighth of an inch from the edge. Cut off any uneven or frayed turnings, remove the tacking, and turn the sleeve over to the wrong side, tack down the turning, and stitch the seam again. Remove the tacking, slip the sleeve on to a sleeve-board, and press the seam.

Cut a slit about two and a half inches long at the back of the bottom of the sleeve for the wrist opening; this must be finished with a "false hem" on the under side and a "wrap" on the upper side.

Diagram 1. Material folded for one sleeve, with edges of seam perfectly level

For the under side cut a strip of the material on the straight, selvedge-wise, about one inch and a quarter longer than the opening, place it up the slit - right sides "facing" - and the edge level with the edge of the opening at the bottom and up the side. Tack it in this position, and run, or machine stitch, it up the side of the opening about a quarter of an inch from the edge. Take out the tacking, and turn the "false hem" over to the wrong side of the sleeve, turn in the edge along the side and at the top, tack, and then hem it neatly to the sleeve.

For the upper side of the opening cut a strip of the material on the straight, selvedge-wise, about two inches wide and a quarter of an inch longer than the opening; place it up the slit - right sides "facing" - and the edge level with the edge of the opening at the bottom and up the side, tack it in this position, and machine stitch it up the side of the opening, about a quarter of an inch from the edge. Fold the strip for the

"wrap" in half lengthwise, wrong side out, and run it across the top, turn it right side out, and tack it along the fold across the top. Turn in the edge of the under side of the " wrap," tack it over the raw edge of the seam, and hem it neatly to the sleeve; press it on the wrong side, and stitch it firmly across the top over the under side of the opening. It should now appear as shown in Diagram 2.

Diagram 2. Showing the ' wrap" in position, and stitched across the top

Make the second sleeve in the same way, then put them aside until the cuffs are ready to be put on.

Fold one of the pieces that have 'been cut for the cuffs in half lengthwise, wrong side out, and stitch up each end about a quarter of an inch from the edge, turn it right side out, and push out the corners carefully with a pair of scissors to make them nice and sharp, and tack along the fold and down each end; turn in, and tack the edge of the cuff all round, press it, fold it in half, and place a pin at the turned-in edge.

Gather round the bottom of one of the sleeves about half an inch from the edge, draw up the fulness to the size of the cuff, stick in a pin at the end of the gathers, and twist the cottom securely round over and under it.

The "wrap" and the "false hem" must not be gathered.

Pin one edge of the cuff on the right side of the sleeve, placing the pin marking the middle of the cuff at the seam of the sleeve, regulate the gathers, and pin the cuff in position round it. Tack, and then fell it on, taking up each gather as in plain needlework. Turn the sleeve wrong side out. and tack the other edge of the cuff over the

Dress turnings, and hem it down to the gathers of the sleeve.

Turn the sleeve right side out, and machine stitch down the two ends, and round the bottom of the cuffs.

Gather the top of the sleeve about half an inch from the edge, commencing at the under-arm about five inches from the seam, and gathering round to the seam.

Do the second sleeve in the same way.

To Find Position of Sleeve

Put on the shirt and find the position for the sleeve, pin the seam of the sleeve to the shirt, draw up the gathers to the size of the armhole, and arrange the fulness gradually round, increasing it across the shoulder, and decreasing it again towards the back; the five inches that were not gathered round the under-arm must be put in plain. Pin it at intervals round the armhole. Take off the shirt, and very carefully reverse the turnings of the armhole, turning them inwards - commence at the seam of the sleeve - then the five inches that are plain at the under-arm, and then the gathers, taking out one pin at a time.

Tack in the sleeve, and stitch it in by hand with strong cotton, about half an inch from the edge, the sleeve being held next the worker.

N.B. - The sleeve must always be held next the worker, as in working, the side held uppermost is sure to be slightly "eased," and it would spoil the fit and appearance of the shirt if that were "eased."

Cut off any superfluous turnings, and overcast the armhole neatly.

N.B. - It is better to overcast the arm-holes than to bind them, as, although the binding looks neat, it is uncomfortable, as it prevents the armhole yielding to the movements of the arm, and is liable to cut round the armhole.

Fold the shirt together, and measure from the under-arm seam to find the position for the seam of the other sleeve. Pin and then tack in the sleeve exactly to correspond, and finish the armhole in the same wav.

The Buttonholes

The buttonholes must be next made.

Instructions for working them were given in Part 3, page 378. But in these buttonholes no hole must be "punched" at either end, and they must be worked down the two sides and then "barred" at both ends.

It is better to complete the two sides, and then work the bar at one end, pass the needle and cotton between the material, along one side, bring it out at the other end, and work the second "bar."

It is most important that the slits should be cut perfectly straight and

"clean," and with a small pair of scissors with sharp points, such as embroidery scissors. The buttonholes in this shirt can be worked either in fine twist or cotton. A thread long enough to work the entire buttonhole should be taken, as a join must be avoided. The needle should be threaded with the end of the cotton as it comes from the reel [not broken off and threaded from that end of the length]; so that the cotton will not twist and knot.

Position of the Buttonholes

The work must be held so that the slit is parallel to the worker and along the finger. The buttonholes in the neckband and cuffs should be cut horizontally - i.e., with the stripes, not across them, and about a quarter of an inch from the edge, so as to be quite free from the extra thickness of the turning. There must be two buttonholes on the right-hand side of the neckband of this shirt - as it is a deep one - and two buttons to correspond on the left-hand side. The cuffs must have two buttonholes on the upper side, and two buttons to correspond on the under side. If studs are to be used instead of buttons, buttonholes must be made on both sides, and it is then better to cut those on the under side at right angles to those on the upper side - i.e., across the stripes. This is done in order to keep the studs securely fixed. Pearl buttons will probably be used for this shirt. Those shown in the sketch have four holes, and are sewn on by a cross-stitch. This must be worked loosely, and at the same time securely. A good plan is to hold .a bodkin under the button while sewing it on. When sufficient stitches have been worked across and across to make the button secure, remove the bodkin, bring the needle out between the material and the button, and wind the thread firmly and evenly round the stitches several times to form a stem to the button; then fasten the thread securely, and cut it off.

Diagram 3. Three ways in which pearl buttons with four holes may be sewn

White pearl buttons can be sewn on with twist to match the stripe on the material, and, if preferred, the stitches can be worked to form a square or two little bars, instead of a cross. Diagram 3 illustrates the three ways of sewing on buttons with four holes. Hooks and eyes to correspond must be sewn on the band of the shirt at the waist, and it is a good plan to sew two eyes, or small metal rings, buttonholed round (instructions for this buttonholing were given in Part 7, page 884), at the top, on the outside of the band at the back, about two inches apart, and to sew two hooks turned upwards at the bottom of the inside of the skirt band to correspond. This prevents the skirt dropping at the back, and makes the waist look neat and trim.

The making of the shirt is now completed. The next lesson will deal with another method of finishing it off, and small details.