Six yards and a half of double-width material, about 45 inches wide, will be quite sufficient to cut the little dressing-gown illustrated in the finished sketch. It has been designed for a cashmere de soie in white or some pale shade of colour, and trimmed with white or ivory lace, or it may be embroidered in silks.
About 18 yards of lace will be required to trim the collar and sleeves and for the frill down the front; with about 6 yards of insertion, and a quarter-ounce reel of machine silk, to match the cashmere. If the dressing-gown is to be embroidered in silks, the collar should be lined with soft silk, and the sleeves and front of the gown faced with it. For this about 2 yards would be required.
For the girdle, which is made of silk and wool, from 2 to 3 ounces-ac-cording to the thickness it is to be made - of double Berlin wool will be required. This can either match the cashmere or the different shades of the silk with which the embroidery has been worked.
A few extra skeins of silk will be re-quired for the girdle, either white or to match the shade of the cashmere or the silks. The number of skeins will depend upon the amount of silk desired to be mixed with the wool.
Measurements to be Taken
A simple but pretty dressing gown with a twisted girdle of silk and wool shoulder - of the person for whom it is being made -to the floor in front, and from the nape of the neck to the floor at the back. Three inches must be allowed for the hem, and 6 inches for the three-1 inch wide-tucks, also 1 inch for turnings; and to the back length must also be added the number of inches the gown is to rest on the floor-e.g., if the length in front is 57 inches, add to it 10 inches for the hem, tucks, and turning. The length the material will have to be cut will be 67 inches. And if the back measure is 58 inches, add to it 10 inches for the hem, tucks, and turnings; and, say, 5 inches to rest on the floor. Therefore the length the material will have to be cut will be 73 inches.
Before commencing the dressing-gown, cut a pattern for the collar and sleeves, also for a yoke at the back.
The collar must be cut deep enough to completely cover the yoke and the gathers of the dressing-gown.
To Cut the Pattern for the Yoke
Fold a piece of paper in two, and place and pin the pattern of the back of the bodice on it, with the centre-back near the fold, touching it at the nape of the neck. Place and pin the side body next the back, the two pieces touching at the shoulder, and with the waist line in both pieces perfectly straight.
From the nape of the neck measure down the fold 5 or 6 inches, according to the depth required for the yoke, make a mark, and draw a straight line across the pattern to the armhole. Outline the neck, shoulder, and part of the armhole with chalk. With a tracing wheel trace through the line across the pattern for the "depth of yoke."
Remove the bodice pattern, and cut out
Back view of dressing' gown when finished the double paper along the wheel-marks and on the chalked outline, but do not cut
Diagram I. The placing of bodice pattern from which to cut the yoke through the fold. Open the paper, and the pattern for the yoke should appear as in Diagram 2.
To Cut the Pattern for the Collar
Fold a piece of paper in two, and place and pin the back of the bodice pattern on it, the centre-back to touch the fold at the nape of the neck, and about half an inch from it at the required depth for the collar at the back, as shown in the diagram. Place and pin the front of the bodice pattern with the shoulders meeting, as in the diagram. From the nape of the neck measure down the fold the depth desired for the collar (this must be rather deeper than the yoke), make a mark, and draw a straight line.across, and.beyond the pattern, for the width of the collar (this
Diagram 2. The pattern of yoke as it should appear when cut ou should be slightly wider than the yoke). From the shoulder, measure round the neck of the bodice pattern to the front, and make a mark at about half that measure. From the bottom of the shoulder point, measure along the edge of the pattern of the front about 7 inches; make a mark, and with a square draw a line from one mark to the other. Connect this line with the one for the bottom of the collar by a slightly curving line, as shown in the diagram.
Diagram 3. To cut the pattern of the collar. Note position of the stars on diagram
From the mark which is near the half-neck, draw with the square a line about 10 inches long to touch the edge of the front. From the front of the neck, measure down the centre-front line about 10 inches; make a mark, and place a square by this mark to touch the bottom of the line just drawn, and draw a line about 6 inches long. To draw the neck, outline the bodice pattern from the nape of the neck to the mark where the two lines for the collar meet; then continue drawing a slightly curving line, passing through the front of the bodice pattern-about 2 inches below the front neck - and extending about 5 inches beyond the
Diagram 4. The collar pattern as it should appear when cut out centre-front line, and with a square draw a line connecting it with the bottom of the collar.
With a tracing wheel, trace through to the paper the lines that have been drawn on the pattern. Remove the pattern, and mark the stars on the pattern as shown on the diagram-one on each side where the lines meet, and two on the front of the collar.
N.B.-Unless these stars are carefully placed on the pattern before it is cut out the amateur may find a difficulty in putting the pieces of the collar correctly together.
Cut out the pattern through the double paper, on the chalk and wheel marks. Do not cut through the fold.
Open the paper, and the collar pattern should appear as in Diagram 4.