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If plants of schizanthus have been stood in a cold frame after flowering, and kept damp, seedlings will be appearing and the old plants must be removed. Fresh seed of schizanthus may also be sown this month for a succession.
Keep houses well shaded and ventilated during trying weather, and use the syringe freely morning and afternoon. Richardias should have abundance of water and be plunged in ashes. Keep all greenhouse climbers regulated and trained.
The young wood of creepers should be trained near the roof.
Plants flowering in the stove-house may be brought into the conservatory for flowering.
Most plants will appreciate shade this month, except dracaenas and crotons, which colour best in full sun. Shade the fern-house heavily, and preserve a very moist condition, but do not allow much water on the leaves of fine-leaved ferns, such as maidenhair.
Celery should be planted out this month for a main crop. Give plenty of water in dry weather.
Remove the weakly shoots from cucumbers, and any badly-shaped fruit. Copious watering will be needful.
Tomatoes must not be too freely watered, but a mulch of manure may be given to assist their growth, hoeing the ground before doing so. The plants should be kept to two stems, all side shoots being removed. Staking must not be done too tightly, to allow for swelling of the stems, but be careful that these are not left to blow about.
Cabbages sown in May may now be put out for winter use, planting them a foot apart. In favourable localities two or three sowings should be made towards the end of the month, either broadcast or in drills.
Plant winter greens in all vacant places, choosing showery weather for the work.
Cauliflowers sown in May will be ready for transplanting during July into rich, well-cultivated ground.
The plants should stand at least eighteen inches apart, the drills in which they are planted being two feet away from each other. Lettuces may be sown for a succession; the seedlings must have plenty of water, and the beds be hoed frequently. Sow parsley now for early next year.
A shady border should be used if possible for growing small salads during the hot season.
Stake peas, and earth up where needful. Dwarf varieties may suitably be sown for late succession.
Scarlet runner beans will also require staking; this should be done in good time, or the growth will become troublesome. Stout stakes, six feet in height, must be put firmly in the ground, and the tops crossed about eighteen inches down, with other stakes placed horizontally across the top.
French beans should now be sown at once for an autumn crop, and may suitably follow after early potatoes, as may also a crop of turnips for autumn use. Kidney beans may be earthed up slightly, and the last crop sown early in the month.
Bush fruits, such as currants and gooseberries, should have some of their summer wood removed, where this is likely to shade the fruit. Gooseberries must be highly led to produce large fruits, either by top-dressing with cow or sheep manure, or by supplying an artificial fertiliser.
Strawberries can now be layered, and the runners afterwards planted out in showery weather, so as to be in time for a good crop of fruit next year. Old beds which have become unfruitful should be cleared, manured, and planted with a different crop.
Give a little stimulant to peaches and nectarines which are fruiting, watering well afterwards.
Pears and plums trained on walls or as espaliers should have the strongest shoots stopped five inches beyond the old wood. Tie in strong shoots to take the place of old branches, and thin out weakly wood. Leave any good growths near the base of the spurs, as if cut back in winter these will in time form fruiting spurs. This can be done with any wall fruit-trees which bear on spurs.
Dessert plums should have the fruit thinned, to perfect individual fruits.
Outdoor vines should be looked to, and all useless shoots removed. Thin out the smallest berries regularly.
Trees which have been grafted should be looked over, and care be taken that the branches are not blown about. Remove shoots or suckers which might rob the scion of its proper nourishment. Continue budding fruit-trees this month.
In the vinery, late grapes must be thinned to prevent decay later on, and the laterals of vines stopped as required. Rub a little sulphur on the grapes. Water outside and in, as necessary, and give plenty of air, especially to grapes which are colouring.
Pines should be treated as last month if the work is not complete. Shade during the hottest part of the day.
Figs may have nourishment, but do not syringe when the trees are bearing. Remove laterals to one leaf.
Pinch out the lateral growth of peaches, and keep ripening fruit on the dry side. Keep the soil moist, and ventilate early in the day. Allow the fruit two days to finish ripening after it is picked.
Melons and cucumbers should have their growth kept thin. Ventilate melons freely, but do not shade the house. Any plants which show canker should have the affected parts heavily dusted with slaked lime. Cucumbers suffering from mildew must be dusted with sulphur, and sprayed with nicotine if attacked by green-fly.