Details that Make or Mar a Dress-the Satchel-bag an Important Adjunct to a Costume-how to Make Some Pretty and Inexpensive Bags
Everyone is agreed as to the importance of the details of dress, and as to the great expense, alas ! of such details. The woman who can do her own millinery and neckwear has therefore a considerable advantage over the one who has not cultivated her talents in this direction. She may also make her own satchel-bag; and such a bag, slung across the shoulder by a tinsel cord, adds a marvellous amount of smartness to a simple toilette.
In Paris, most of these bags are made to match the gown. For instance, a shepherd's-plaid suit with a belt of blue leather striped with yellow has an envelope-shaped bag made of the same material, and the flap decorated with a band of the blue and yellow
A satchel-bag of black velvet, trimmed with platinum braid. A bag of this description adds smartness to a simple toilette. A tinsel cord is attached, by means of which the bag can be worn slung across the shoulder leather. On this side the Channel, black or coloured velvet is the most popular fabric for these bags, and they are usually trimmed with gold or platinum tinsel furniture braid, and more or less elaborate braiding. Furniture brocades are also used with good effect, and a very pleasing and uncommon bag is made out of printed linen in Oriental shades edged with gold furniture galon.
To make a bag of this description, first cut the shape in paper. A good design is shown in one of our illustrations. The measurements are 10 1/4 inches from the top to the point, 10 3/4 inches across the widest part, and 8 inches across the top. The rounded flap measures 4 inches at the deepest part. Half a yard of velvet will be required. Cut the velvet with a turning and mount it over tailors' canvas, folding the velvet over the canvas around the edges to the correct size. The braiding should be done before the bag is made up, and the galon sewn on around the edge of the top part. The back of the bag is left quite plain.
The design for the braiding should first be drawn in pencil on a piece of paper. One side is drawn first, and the paper doubled in half and the second side traced through. This is then traced again on to a piece of coarse lino, which is laid on the velvet, and the lines gone over with a yellow chalk pencil. The chalk passes through the lino and forms a line on the velvet. When thus traced, the design should be outlined either with a rat's-tail cord or fancy waved braid. Platinum cord braid should be sewn on with grey cotton, and gold braid with yellow cotton. Attention to this detail makes a considerable difference in the appearance of the finished work.
When the braiding is done the front and the back pieces of the bag are laid together and over-sewn around the edges, and to hide the stitches a piece of rat's-tail cord is put on. The fastening may either be made with one of the little patent press buttons, or a loop of rat's-tail cord to pass over a button stitched on to the bag. The loop must be made a fairly tight fit for the sake of safety.
The next step is to sew on the thick tinsel cord by which the bag is carried. This must be done before the lining is put in. Two yards of cord will be needed, each end of which is made up in a knot and loop, and stitched at each corner of the flap.
Now the lining should be cut out, and the bag part seamed together on the wrong side. It is then slipped into the bag, and the part for the flap turned in around the edges, and slipstitched into place.
The quantities of material required for this bag will be: Half a yard of velvet at 4s. 11d. the yard, 1 1/4 yards of furniture galon, just over an inch wide, at 6 3/4d. a yard, 2 yards of rat's-tail cord at 3 3/4:1., and 2 yards of waved braid at about 4 3/4d.; half a yard of silk, at is. 11d., for lining, and half a yard of tailors' canvas at 5 3/4 d., for interlining. The cost will be about 5s. 9dl., without the cord for hanging, of which the price varies very much according to the quality, but a nice one can be purchased for a shilling or so the yard.
A very pretty effect can also be gained by plaiting the narrow rat's-tail cord and using it instead of a wide one.
The second bag is made in a somewhat different way. First of all, the silk and canvas are laid one over the other and tacked together. The silk in this case is a beautiful piece of Venetian-red brocade, a copy of an old one. The design for the braiding is then traced, as directed in the former case, on the flap and the bag itself, and is outlined with a very effective gold tubular braid with a silk back, which is easy to manipulate.
The lining is next laid at the back, and slipstitched along the top of the bag. A piece of gold furniture galon is then folded in half, and sewn on as a binding over the raw edges around the sides and the flap of the bag. Another piece of the galon is stitched on up each side of the bag, and it is complete, except for the fastening and the cord.
The quantities of materials required will depend upon the size of the bag. As it is intended for evening wear, it need only be quite small, and if made of some piece of brocade in the possession of the worker will be very inexpensive. In the case of the other bag, although the materials seem rather costly, the bag, when finished, may be worth from 25s. upwards, according to the amount of braiding.
Those who do not feel inclined to undertake the actual making of the bag themselves will find that they can effect an economy by purchasing the materials themselves, even if they have to call in the services of a dressmaker, who is a neat worker, to do the actual sewing.
Quite simple and effective bags can be made of velvet to match the gown, with no braiding at all, but just a piece of furniture galon sewn on around the flap and the bag itself. A tinsel button can be bought ready made for about 3 1/2d. to use as a fastening, though it is better to use a press button as well and dispense with a loop.
A satchel-bag bound with gold furniture galon. It is intended for evening use, and can be made quite easily by home workers
A pretty bag in velvet to accompany a costume of some simplicity can be fashioned in a colour that exactly matches the dress of its owner, or that contrasts suitably. Such a bag should not be elaborate; indeed, its sole ornament can quite well assume the form of three silken tassels at the bottom, sewn at equidistant points. Thus will be secured an admirable and, shall we say, refreshing severity of treatment that will strike the note of distinction and individuality so dear to the connoisseur in the art of dress. The cord that suspends this bag should be of equal simplicity. Excellence of material and finish of workmanship must in this case atone for absence of decoration.
It is, however, in the more elaborately fashioned bag that the dainty taste of the cunning needlewoman or craftswoman can find its widest scope. All materials are at her disposal. For a trim tailor-made, she has the various leathers and suedes from which to choose a foundation for her skill. Should she work in leather, an embossed satchel-bag may well afford her opportunities, while, should her brush be the fittest exponent of her artistic fancy, then the delicately coloured and supple suede or kid can embody any imaginative originality in the form of design or monogram that may appeal to her. Nothing is valued more truly than a gift which has been made solely for its recipient.