Examiner in Dressmaking, Tailoring, French Pattern Modelling, Plain Needlework and Millinery, of the Teachers in Training at the University College of South Wales and Monmouthshire, Cardiff, the London Technical Examination Centre, etc. Author of'" Up-to-date Dresscutting and Drafting" also " The Practical Work of Dressmaking and Tailoring."
To Cut the Pattern for the Sleeves
Diagram 1, Place and pin the pattern of a dress sleeve on a sheet of paper as here shown the top and at the bottom of the sleeve-the space can therefore be regulated according to the amount desired.
The sleeve in the finished sketch reaches only to the bend of the arm; the outline must be sloped down towards the back, as shown in the diagram, to give extra length. Draw the shape for the sleeve according to the diagram, remove the coat-sleeve pattern, and cut out the pattern for the sleeve for the dressing-gown.
Open the cashmere, fold the two cut edges together (right sides facing) and place it on the table. From the cut edge measure along the selvedge ten inches (for the hem, tucks, and turning), make a mark, or stick in a pin; from it measure the length the dressing-gown is to be when finished, and make another mark. Place the "front" and "side front" of the bodice pattern on the cashmere, in the position shown in Diagram 2-i.e., with the neck point of the shoulder on a line with the second mark.
From the first mark, or pin, measure across the material the width desired for the fronts, plus two and a half inches for the front hems, and one inch for turnings.
E.g.-If the fronts are to be 27 inches each, three and a half inches must be added for the hem and turnings, and the cashmere must be cut 30 1/2 inches.
Place the patterns of the collar, back yoke, and sleeve on the material, as shown
Diagram 2. Place the " front" and " side front " of the bodice pattern on the cashmere, and cut the fronts as here shown
Dress in the diagram. The back of the collar is placed across the material, so that the grain of the cashmere may match that on the gown, all shading alike. The front pieces of the collar must be placed on the cross, as it would be if the collar were cut in one with the fronts, and turned back. The back yoke must be placed along the selvedge, as, for strength, yokes should always be cut-on the straight-selvedgewise.
Outline all the patterns with chalk and cut out the pieces, allowing turnings as shown in the diagrams, and extra turnings on the "fitting seams," which are the underarm and shoulder seams.
Diagram 3. Place the "side body " pattern on a folded length of cashmere for the back of gown
Remove the patterns of the front piece of the collar, and place it again on a spare piece of the double material, on the cross, in exactly the same position as before; outline, and cut out these two extra pieces for the lining.
If it is preferred to line the yoke and collar with silk, the yoke and the back of the collar must not, of course, be cut double, but through one fold of the material only; and, of course, only two front pieces for the collar will be required.
Deduct the depth of the back yoke from the length the back of the dressing-gown is to be when finished, add ten inches for the hem and tucks, and cut off a length of the cashmere (the whole width) to that measure.
Fold this length in half, selvedges together, and right sides "facing," and on it place the pattern of the "side body," twelve inches from the fold, and with the row of wheel-marks (which were traced across the pattern to cut out the yoke) on the cut edge.
N.B.-The distance (twelve inches) from the fold is left to allow for the fulness in the back, which is to be gathered up and put into the yoke, under the collar.
Measure the length of the side seam of the front piece of the dressing-gown, and mark that length on the material for the side seam of the back, from the bottom of the armhole to near the selvedge; and, with two squares, draw one long line for the side seam, and from it draw a curved line to the cut edge, for the bottom of the dressing-gown. Outline the curve of the armhole with chalk, and cut out the back of the dressing-gown, allowing half an inch for turning round the armhole, and two inches down the side or "fitting seam."
Remove all the patterns and commence by turning in the bottom of one of the pieces for the back yoke. This must be done quite evenly, neatly tacked, and pressed on the wrong side, but not damped.
Next gather along the top of the back of the dressing-gown, draw up the gathering thread to the width of the yoke, stick in a pin, and twist the thread over and under it several times to keep it firm. Fold the yoke in half, and place a pin to mark the centre-back, and pin the centre-back of the yoke (over the gathers) to the centre-back of the dressing-gown. Arrange and pin the gathers equally across the yoke, or, if preferred, rather more fulness can be placed at the centre than at the sides.
Tack the yoke down firmly, over, and just covering, the row of gathering stitches. Machine-stitch it down as near as possible to the edge of the yoke.
Place the back of the dressing-gown flat on the table, wrong side uppermost, and one front over it, right side uppermost, and fix the side seam together, making the turnings of the front and back perfectly level at the aimhole, pin and tack them together from the armhole to the bottom. Fix the other front on in the same way. Pin and tack the shoulder seams of the fronts to the shoulder seams of the yoke-also on the right side.
Turn down, pin, and firmly tack the hem on each side of the front.
Try on the dressing-gown, and make any necessary alterations at the shoulder and under-arm seams.
Take off the dressing-gown, and mark the shoulder seams by "tailor tacking"; make a notch through the double material, at the edge of the turning of each seam, so as to put them together again correctly on the wrong side. Carefully tack and machine-stitch the shoulder seams, and press them with the double turnings turned back on to the yoke.
In cashmere or similar materials, the under-arm seams can be joined by a "French seam"; it is therefore unnecessary to reverse these turnings. After the necessary corrections have been made, the seams must be neatly run together on the right side, about a quarter or three-eighths of an inch outside the line of tacking. Cut off all superfluous turning to within about an eighth of an inch of the running stitches, remove the tacking, and turn the material right over to the wrong side, crease the edges as flat as possible (to bring the stitches which are inside near the top), and tack down the folded edge of the seam. This tacking must be neatly done to hold the edge firmly down; and if an iron is available, it is a help to press the turning down flat before stitching the seam. Machine-stitch each seam-from the top downwards-about a quarter or three-eighths of an inch from the edge.
Press the seam down flat, but do not damp it. Cashmere and similar materials must not be damped.
The hems down each side of the front must now be hemmed, or machine-stitched, or, if the dressing-gown is to be invisibly fastened, cut a strip of the cashmere-selvedgewise-the length of the front, and double the width of the front hem. Fold this strip in half -lengthwise, right side out-tack, and press it flat down the fold, and tack the raw edges just inside the hem, so that when the edge of the hem is hemmed or stitched down the folded strip will be stitched in with it.
Turn the folded strip over the hem, tack, and press it flat in this position.
This will form a double hem down the front, the inner one slightly narrower than the outer hem.
Tack the cashmere (or the silk) which was cut to line the yoke over it, on the wrong side, turn in the edge of it across the back, and tack it down to cover the raw edges of the gathers, turn it in at the shoulder seams to cover the turnings, tack, and hem it neatly with silk to match, being careful to take none of the stitches through to the right side.
Fold the dressing-gown in half, pin it together round the bottom, near the edge, place it flat on the table, and cut off any un-evenness at the bottom to make it quite level all round before the hem is turned up. Turn down a narrow turning all round, then cut a piece of card, or stiff paper, the depth the hem is to be made, and with it measure and mark at intervals, with chalk, the depth to turn it up for the hem.
Turn up the material on these marks, pin and securely tack the hem all round, making small pleats wherever the slope of the gores make it necessary.
To be continued.