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"Facing" the Collar and Revers
The collar and revers are now ready for "facing." This should, if possible, be done without any join.
N.B. - The length of velvet or satin allowed for in the estimate for this costume should be sufficient; but it depends to some extent on the individual figure and on the size the collar and revers are made.
If a join is absolutely unavoidable, and the collar and revers are trimmed in any way, it is better to make a join where it can be hidden by the trimming than to have it at the centre-back.
To Cut the Pattern for "Facing:"
To obtain the pattern from which to cut the velvet or satin facing, pin a piece of "leno " over half the "stand and fall" of the collar and revers, place the leno on the straight down the centre-back of the collar - that is, the length of the collar along the cut edge, and the depth of it, and the revers selvedge wise. Cut the leno along the outer edge of the collar and one revers, then along the bottom of the stand, allowing a good turning to " face " over the " crease edge " of the revers. Unpin the leno, fold a piece of paper in half, place the leno pattern on it, the centre-back along the fold, cut out the paper double from the leno, but do not cut through the fold.
Open the paper, which should now give the pattern of the whole collar in one piece.
N.B. - It is always better to " face'" the collar first with the material of which the coat is made, as it gives the velvet, or satin, a softer appearance. It is also more practical, as when the velvet is shabby it can be taken off, and need not necessarily be replaced, the collar being complete without it. Should there not be sufficient of the material to cover the collar, a layer of " domet " should be placed over the canvas, under the velvet, to give the soft appearance to it.
How to Cut a Satin "Facing"
Place and pin the paper pattern of the collar on the straight of the material - that is, the length of the collar along the cut edge, and the depth of it along the selvedge, so that the grain of the cloth in it may match that of the back of the coat. Cut out the material by the pattern, allowing turnings all round.
Tack on the " facing " over the canvas of the collar, easing it slightly, turn in the outer edge to project just beyond the under edge of the collar, tack, and then neatly " fell " the collar to the " facing "-the stitches must not be taken through to the right side. The inside edge of the facing must be brought down smoothly, and the raw edges tacked so as to go under the lining of the coat round the neck and down the fronts, then herringboned down, with long stitches, to the coat. Well press the " facing " from the wrong side of the collar, and work a row of machine-stitching all round it (on the right side), so that if the velvet, or other facing, is removed, the collar will still have its finished appearance without it.
The velvet, or satin, will look, and set, better if it is cut on the cross; if velvet is used, the pattern must be placed on it with the pile running upwards on the front, so that it brushes downwards, against the pile.
The pattern must be pinned on with needles or fine steel pins, and cut out, allowing turnings all round. Remove the pattern, and tack this second " facing " carefully over the first; if the "facing" is of velvet it must be turned over the edge of the collar, tacked with fine silk all round the edge, cut off evenly, leaving a narrow turning only, and neatly herringboned down with fine silk. To be continued.