The coat illustrated in the finished sketch in Vol. 3, page 1717, is double-breasted; it only reaches about eight inches below the waist, and is made without a seam down the centre-back-the back being cut in one, forming a panel. The coat-sleeve is buttoned at the cuff, the revers reaches almost to the waist, and is "faced" in one with the collar. The diagram for cutting out this coat, therefore, varies in all these
Dre83 respects from the one for the single-breasted coat given in Vol. 1, page 758.
Lay the serge-folded double, the selvedges together-on the table, and place the front of the bodice pattern on it, with the centre-front five inches from the selvedge, as shown in Diagram 1. Pin it to the serge in this position. Measure from the waist eight inches, for the length of the basque, make a mark, and draw a line across the serge, the width of the pattern, for the bottom of the coat.
Outline the pattern all round with chalk, and make a mark at each side of the waistline. Draw with the square a straight line to connect the side of the bodice pattern with the line for the bottom of the coat. Complete the centre-front line in the same way. Draw a broken line all round, for turnings, about one inch beyond the edge of the pattern at the side seam, and along the bottom, and two inches at the shoulder, or "fitting-seam."
Place the "side front" near the front, in the position shown in the diagram, and pin the pattern to the serge; measure from the waist eight inches, for the length of the basque, make a mark, and draw a line for the bottom of the side of the coat; outline the pattern all round, and make a mark at each side of the waist-line. Draw a line with the square, to complete the line for the seam, on each side of the pattern; draw a broken line all round for the turnings, about one inch beyond the edge of the pattern at the seam to shoulder, and at the bottom, half an inch round the armhole, and two inches at the shoulder and under-arm seams.
Place the back on the serge with the centre-back down the fold, as shown in the diagram, and pin it to the serge; measure from the waist-line nine inches, for the basque; outline the pattern, etc., as instructed for the fronts, allowing one inch for turning at the seam to shoulder and at the bottom, half an inch at the neck, and two inches at the shoulder seam.
N.B.-The reason the back basque must be an inch longer than the front is that a coat always requires to be longer-waisted than a dress bodice; therefore extra length is required, that the waist-line may be lowered, and one to one and a half inches is allowed, according to the figure for whom the coat is being made. The waist of a stout figure cannot be lengthened as much as a slight one.
In placing the pattern of the back, the side body, and the side piece on the material, great care must be taken to ensure the waist-line in each piece being perfectly straight, or the coat will not "balance," and the back or side pieces will probably " drag," instead of setting smoothly over the figure.
Place, pin, outline, etc., the side body and side piece, as shown, allowing the extra inch for the length of the basque for each of these.
N.B.-The waist-line at the under-arm seam can be lowered, if necessary, when the coat is being fitted.
Contrary to the back pieces, the side of the front will always set and look better if the waist-line is on the cross of the material. It can be cut in this way for a short coat, but it is not advisable for a long one, as it would bring the side of the skirt of the coat completely on the cross, and cause it to drop at the bottom.
Place and pin the pattern with the bottom of it straight across the serge, so that the twill may run correctly and match in the cuff part of both sleeves; outline the pattern all round, and draw a broken line for the turnings, allowing one inch for the inside seam and round the top.
Allow two inches at the bottom of the back seam for three and a half inches; then one inch to the top, and allow one and a half inches at the bottom, to turn up for the facing. This extra width at the cuff, on both the under and upper parts of the sleeve, is clearly shown on the diagram.
Cut out all the pieces for the coat and sleeves on the broken lines, denoting the turnings, the centre-front close to the selvedge, not on the chalked outline.
The fold up the centre-back must not be cut.
Remove the pattern, and carefully mark the waist-line; make another mark about an inch below, and lengthen the waist to this second mark. After all the lines have been correctly drawn, "tailor tack" on them through to the second half of the serge.
Next cut out the lining for the coat by the serge. As the fronts are faced back with cloth, it is only necessary that the lining should meet that facing.
It is only necessary to cut the lining for the sleeves to meet the facing of cloth, which is turned up all round the bottom, but allow a little extra length at the top of the sleeve to prevent any "drag" caused by too short a lining.
Next cut the French canvas to interline the fronts; this, contrary to the lining, must reach quite to the outer edge of the coat, so as to stiffen it through the revers and down the front-it can therefore be cut the same size as the serge front.
The "side front" can be cut the same as the serge at the top-i.e., shoulder, neck, and front of armhole-and then sloped gradually down to reach to a short distance only beyond the "seam to shoulder" at the bottom of the coat.
From the remaining pieces of canvas cut two strips, perfectly on the cross, about three and a half inches wide, to go round the bottom of the sleeves; also a strip about the same width for the collar.
Small pieces of canvas joined together can be used for these strips.