The Delicate Shades in which Suede may be Dyed - Practical Uses of Embroidered Suede - Choice of Design - Beads and Discs of Gold - How to Arrange a Coat Collar - Cuffs and Buttons in

Embroidered Suede - Bags - Gloves of the Olden Times

Out in the Wild West, the dark-skinned Indian girl adorns her graceful body with picturesque strings of beads and quaint, fantastically - cut dressed leather. There is something peculiarly fascinating at all times about the barbaric dress of other lands. How interesting it is to note how women of all colours and nations, throughout the ages, have ever sought to add to their charms by certain characteristic personal adornment!

Perhaps it is the inbred love of the barbaric that makes one think of leather in connection with beads, but how wonderful is the leather at our command - the leather which we know under the guise of suede. It is as soft as velvet, with an exquisite, peach - like surface not to be found in any other fabric. It is dyed in every conceivable shade, from the palest pink of a rose to the translucent green of the sea on a summer day.

Dried in the sunshine, it comes to us from the dyers in irregular pieces of skin - much the same as a large chamois leather - which we can cut and;adjust to our own uses and requirements. tor the beads with which we may desire to embellish it, their choice must be left to the embroiderer. The dull porcelain beads look well on suede, and they can be bought in all the soft pastel shades, also to match the leather, if this is preferred to a contrast of colouring. When dull beads are used, filoselle or mallard floss is the best medium for embroidering; it is so lustrous and bright that it makes a delightful foil to the dull surface of the suede and beads. When Venetian or Oriental beads are chosen, chenille is delightfully effective. Small beads may be arranged to form flowers, whilst the stems and leaves can be worked in chenille in paler or darker shades than the suede.

A design which illustrates the manner in which embroidered sued' can be employed with charming effect. The indispensable hand bag is also of suede, worked in filoselle and beads

A design which illustrates the manner in which embroidered sued' can be employed with charming effect. The indispensable hand bag is also of suede, worked in filoselle and beads

There are numerous practical uses for this beautiful bead and silk embroidery on suede, perhaps one of the most alluring being a collar for a coat. It is certainly smart and wonderfully effective. The skins can be dyed to match any shade of cloth if desired, but already there are such a wide and beautiful range of colourings that there is little need for this. It is best to ask one's tailor for a paper pattern of a collar which exactly fits the wearer. Place this on the suede, and tack its shape in white cotton on to the suede, leaving a good margin for trimmings. The suede should now be tacked on to a coarse canvas, to keep it firm, and the design may then be traced on very lightly. Choose a simple conventional design.

An exquisite collar for a smart coat and skirt may be made of a very pale blue suede, with dull beads to match. The beads should be arranged in tiny groups of threes and fours, and stitched down in pale blue silk. To form the conventional design, thick strands of a pale pastel blue filoselle may be employed, or gold thread may be used if desired. For the former idea the method of "couching" may be adopted; this will make the outline of the design. A thick strand of filoselle must be placed on the suede, and stitched down very neatly with a fine strand of filoselle at regular intervals. Gold thread may be applied in the same manner. Chenille also is effective.

It may be that the design on the suede may be one with leaves. We will suppose that it takes the form of conventional lilies of the valley. The beads will form the flowers, the stems may be worked in simple crewel or stem-stitch, whilst the beads should be stitched down with fancy loop stitches in pale shades of green. The leaves could be composed of plain couching-- strands of filoselle in this case are placed evenly side by side over the space to be filled; the needle, containing a fine strand of filoselle of the same colour, is passed through the suede at the edge of the leaf, and brought up near enough for an intermediate stitch to be taken backwards, so that the threads are secured in their places as the method is repeated. The shape of the leaf should be followed, and the couching will take the lines of the design. After this silk strands are laid across at suitable intervals, suggesting the form of the leaf. The threads are fixed down by stitches at the back.

Instead of beads little discs of gold may be embroidered on to the suede - they give a delightful jewelled appearance, and would look charming embroidered on a pale, grey suede collar, with long conventional sprays or twists interlacing them in strands of filoselle. The gold thread is simply couched in tiny spiral circles, and secured with fine filoselle of grey or pale blue or rose on to the suede, in silk to match the colour of the costume. These tiny discs of gold present a brilliant scintillating effect as the light catches them, and they certainly make a beautiful collar.

Fancy knots, loops, and fancy stitches worked irregularly over the suede surface, with scintillating beads worked in squares or diamond shapes, make a wonderfully effective Oriental-looking collar. This idea should be worked out on a dull grey in golds, blues, and dull wine reds. It would make an elegant collar for a blue coat.

Detail of embroidered suede collar. Dull beads arranged in groups of three and four, connected by strands of heavy filoselle stitched down with fine