This " pain " is dressed on a socle, the frieze being upheld by the trunk of a tree having many branches, these to form a support; the branches are modeled over wire, the surface of the base is covered with foliage and the frieze decorated with leaves and flowers. On top of the socle place a surtout of carved rice of similar shape, to be ten inches long by seven inches wide, or one of tin covered with noodle paste (No. 142). Have three oval molds, the largest ten inches long, by seven inches wide and two inches high, the medium-sized one eight and five-eighths inches long, and three and a half inches high and five and a quarter inches wide; the smallest to be seven and one-eighths inches long, four and five-eighths inches wide and three inches high. Line the inside of these molds with slices of fat pork an eighth of an inch thick. Make three different preparations, one for each mold; for the largest have a young hare "pain" preparation, made as follows: Cut two pounds of young hare meat into large squares; fry in melted chopped fat pork with mushrooms, truffles and fine herbs, salt, aromatics and spices: when the hare is cooked take from the fire and set away to cool, then pound it well, adding four egg-yolks, half a pound of foics-gras from a terrine and one pound of cream panada (No. 120). After all has been well pounded and passed through a sieve, add six ounces of unsmoked cooked beef tongue, half a pound of truffles and one pound of calves' udder, all cut in three-eighths inch squares; mix thoroughly and fill the largest mold; stand it in a sautoir with boiling water and let bake in a slack oven for three hours; cool under a weight, unmold and remove the fat part from the bottom and sides, pare the " pain" neatly, smooth and set it in the ice-box. For the medium-sized mold prepare the following: Cut two pounds of prairie-hen meat in squares, fry on a brisk fire in grated fat pork and as soon as cooked remove, cool and pound well, adding the same quantity of grated fresh fat pork; pound all thoroughly together, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Pound eight ounces of panada and mix it slowly into the preparation, press it through a sieve and mingle into this forcemeat a quarter of a pound of truffles cut in quarter-inch squares and as much fat pork cut exactly the same. With this preparation fill the medium-sized mold, having lined it with slices of fat pork an eighth of an inch thick; stand it in a sautoir with boiling water and let cook in a slow oven for two hours and a half, then cool under a weight. Unmold the "pain," pare and smooth it and leave it in the ice-box. For the smallest mold pound thoroughly one pound of roasted pheasant, partridge or quail meat from which all bones, fat, skin and sinews have been removed, with half a pound of foies-gras from a terrine; season, strain, return to a vessel and add a pint of cold half-glaze sauce (No. 413) well reduced with essence of mushrooms (No. 392) and twelve egg-yolks. Fill the mold with this preparation, stand it in a flat saucepan containing boiling water, place it in the oven, and when poached, cool, unmold and set it in the ice-box. After cleaning the molds well apply the lozenges correctly, dipping each one in half-set cold jelly.

Begin at the bottom of the mold with a lozenge of egg-white cut in half across its length, keeping the lozenges of truffles on the right and the lozenges of tongue on the left. The beauty of this decoration consists in applying and joining them nicely, putting them rather close on the bottom of the mold and a little further away toward the top to allow for the spread of the mold. Coat each mold with jelly (No. 103), having it an eighth of an inch thick at the bottom, and leave it to cool. The lozenges for the large mold are one and three-eighths inches long by three-quarters of an inch wide; for the medium size, one and a quarter inches long by one and one-sixteenth inches wide; and for the smallest, one and one-eighth inches long by five-eighths of an inch wide. Put the " pains" into these decorated molds and finish filling with cold jelly that is not set; stand them in the ice-box for six hours, then unmold the largest carefully on the rice surtout. On the largest place the next size and the smallest on top; in the center of this one place a pretty subject, and at each end of it fasten a garnished hatelet and two larger ones below on the lower " pain." Surround the base of the surtout with jelly croutons (No. 2442).

Fig. 516.