This section is from the book "Every Day Meals", by Mary Hooper. See also: Larousse Gastronomique.
The whole or a portion of an ox cheek can be used for this purpose, as may be convenient. Thoroughly cleanse the cheek, boil it for ten minutes in water, with a little salt, which pour away, thus ensuring perfect cleanliness. Again cover the head with salted water, and boil an ox heel, or a pound of the rind of pork with it until both are perfectly tender. Take out the bones, chop up the meat, season highly with pepper and salt, - a small quantity of allspice is an improvement - and press the meat into the collaring tin as directed for brawn. The liquor the cheek is boiled in will, with the addition of vegetables, make excellent soup.
To have these in perfection they should not be split open. Care is required to cleanse them properly, and a little practice will enable the cook to succeed in this all-important particular.
In the first place make a very slight cut in the back of the head, which twist off with the fingers, and the intestines will come with it. Hold the bloater under the tap and let the water rush rapidly through it. This done, wipe it dry, put it on a gridiron over a very slow fire, turn it frequently until it begins to smoke, when it will be done.
Take a cupful of finely-sifted bread-crumbs, moisten them with a little cold milk, cream, or gravy, and season nicely with pepper and salt. Put a thin layer of the moistened crumbs on a lightly-buttered dish, cut two hard eggs into slices and dip each piece in very thick well-seasoned white sauce, or in good gravy made thick enough to adhere to the eggs. Having arranged the slices of egg neatly on the layer of moistened breadcrumbs, cover them with another layer of it, and on the top strew thickly some pale gold-coloured raspings. Bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes. If potatoes are liked they make a nice substitute for bread-crumbs. Take some mashed potatoes, add to them a spoonful of cream or gravy, and proceed as with bread-crumbs - serve gravy with this dish.
 
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