This section is from the book "Every Day Meals", by Mary Hooper. See also: Larousse Gastronomique.
Split the kidneys in half, and again in quarters, skin them, dip each piece in dissolved butter, and sprinkle them with pepper and salt. Cut some slices of streaked bacon, rather fat than otherwise, and divide them into pieces as nearly the size of the kidneys as possible. Put a piece of kidney on a small skewer, then one of bacon, and so on until the skewer is full, the kidneys and bacon being pressed together as tightly as possible. Put the brochettes into the Dutch oven, let them cook slowly, basting frequently with the fat which runs from the bacon. Take care that the kidneys are not cooked too much, so as to become dry and hard; when done slip them off the skewers and serve, on a hot dish, with the gravy poured over.
Cut some slices of rather fat streaked bacon and lay them on a plate before the fire, or toast them until the fat begins to run and they are about half done, lay the kidneys, skinned and split open, on the plate, and finish toasting the bacon over them. Then manage to hold the kidneys on the toasting-fork, so that not a drop of the gravy falls on the edge of the plate to dry up and be lost; it should all run into the bacon fat. When the gravy ceases to run freely the kidney will be done enough. If it has been cooked slowly, the kidney will be tender and retain much of its gravy without being underdone or indigestible; but if, on the contrary, it has been cooked rapidly it will be hard and decidedly unwholesome. Kidneys may be toasted in the Dutch oven, care being taken to pursue the method indicated, so that the gravy is not dried up. Some of these little ovens are now made to facilitate frequent turning, which is a great advantage. Kent's patent Dutch oven is very strong and well made, and a handle is cleverly arranged so that anything cooking in it can be readily turned without loss of heat or moving the oven.
Dry a half-tin of champignons in a cloth, or if convenient, prepare a similar quantity of fresh button mushrooms, add to these a few pieces of dried mushrooms, previously soaked for ten minutes in tepid water, put them into a stewpan with a slice of butter and stir constantly for six minutes, then add two or three kidneys cut in small neat pieces, in the shape of dice is best, and continue stirring until the kidneys are cooked, taking care to do them slowly; at the last moment, season with pepper and salt, and serve very hot. Garnish the dish with fried sippets of bread.
 
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