This section is from the book "Every Day Meals", by Mary Hooper. See also: Larousse Gastronomique.
The ordinary method of making jam in England has the merit of being rapid and tolerably certain; that, however, in use in France is far better for the small fruits, as it preserves their colour and flavour in a higher degree, besides keeping them whole. In the first place it is necessary to choose the sugar of superfine quality, and to have it broken in large lumps, the crystals being destroyed when it is crushed. In the next a proper preserving-kettle of unturned copper should be used, and above all the fruit must be of the finest quality, fresh and unbroken.
Strawberries and cherries are very delicious preserved by the following recipes: -
To each pound of the finest lump sugar put half-a-pint of water, or if preferred the juice of fresh red currants, let this boil, carefully skimming all the time, until it begins to get thick, and has the appearance of returning to sugar. Now very carefully put in to each pound of sugar one pound of flue fresh-picked strawberries, and let them boil gently for about a quarter of an hour, or until the fruit appears to be done. Pour the preserve into a basin, taking care not to break the fruit, and allow it to stand until the next day, when carefully drain all the juice from the strawberries. Put the juice into the preserving-kettle and let it boil until it will jelly, skimming it as before, then put in the strawberries, and boil them very gently from five to ten minutes, taking care to keep them unbroken. Put the preserve into small glasses or pots, let them stand uncovered for a week; if at the end of that time it does not appear to be satisfactorily made, the last process must be repeated.
Choose fine large cooking cherries of a brilliant red, fully ripe, but not of a sweet kind, stone the fruit, and make a syrup of currant-juice, and proceed as directed for strawberries.
Put a quart of raspberries into a pint of currant-juice, let them boil slowly together until the raspberries are broken up, then strain the fruit through a sieve. Return the juice to the preserving-kettle, and to each pint allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Boil gently, skimming as required, for half an hour, or until the jelly will set. If a very sweet jelly is desired, rather more sugar can be used.
This recipe will answer for any kind of plum, but should the fruit be unusually acid, a little more than the given quantity of sugar should be used.
Skin and stone the fruit, which put in the preserving-kettle with a few spoonfuls of water to prevent burning before the juice draws, stir it well about, and boil until the fruit is thoroughly broken up, then rub it through a sieve to a fine pulp. Measure this, and to a pint allow twelve ounces of lump sugar, boil together, stirring constantly until the conserve is so thick that it breaks when dropped from a spoon. The kernels of the fruit should be blanched and added ten minutes before the conserve is finished.
Pears and apples, together or separately, make excellent and useful conserve by the above method. No water will be required for pears, but for apples, unless of a juicy kind, about a gill of water should be used.
 
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