This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
"Of late they have got into a trick of serving up the roasted pig witthout the usual concomitants. I hate the innovating spirit of this age; it is my aversion, and will undo the country. Always let him appear erect on his four legs, with a lemon in his mouth, a sprig of parsley in his ear, his trotters bedded on a lair of sage. One likes to see a pig appear just as he used to do upon the board of a Swift, a Pope, an Arbuth-not. Take away the customs of a people, and their identity is destroyed".
At a recent dinner, given by Lady Eardlcy, one of the most remarkable dishes was cold ham cut from a pig fed entirely on peaches, and imported from America. It was served with aspic jelly and truffles.
There was nothing considered more delicate in the sixteenth century, nothing more odoriferous, than the flesh of young pigs fed on parsnips, and roasted, with a stuffing of fine herbs.
A boned pig, stuffed, decorated.