April is early enough, in the northern states, for grafting out of doors. It is only those who make top-grafting a business who need to begin in the raw days of March. In fact, the ideal time for out of door grafting is when the leaves are beginning to show. The juices of the plant are then moving freely and scions are sure to grow if set with ordinary care. Even after the leaves are fully formed, old trees may be grafted, but the growth of the scion is apt to be less than if it is set earlier in the season. I recollect having grafted an old and large apple tree one Fourth of July. The scions lived, but the growth was slight. It is not generally known that the longitudinal growth of trees usually ceases or becomes very slow by the first of July, even in the northernmost states.

The greatest difficulty connected with the grafting of old trees is the proper shaping of the new top. At best, this new top is apt to be an unhandy one. Each scion soon takes on a branching habit after the manner of a small tree-top, and even though it may be pruned into a narrow compass, it always eventually occupies more room than an ordinary branch. For this reason, only a part of the branches of the old top can be grafted, and the new top has fewer low and secondary branches than the old one. The new top, therefore, is often a difficult one in which to secure a foothold in pruning and picking times.

There are two opposing methods of re-shaping the top of an old tree. The older one grafts a few large limbs low down in the head, for the purpose of retaining the original height of top. As I have seen it practiced by old grafters, six or eight limbs of 20-year old trees are grafted where they are from three to five inches in diameter, and these grafters usually prefer to place the scions within three or four inches of a crotch in order that the remaining limb may "draw up the sap." There are several vital objections to this old system : I. It removes too much of the tree, for practically the whole top is cut away. 2. The wounds are so large that decay is likely to set in before they heal; in fact, it is rather the exception if they heal well. 3. Scions are much less apt to live than when inserted in small and younger limbs. This is particularly true when the scions are inserted near a crotch, for the remaining limb makes rapid growth after its twin is removed, and instead of "drawing up the sap" to the scion, it draws nourishment away from it.

The wood of old portions is so rigid, also, that small scions are apt to be squeezed to death.

The second or newer system aims to graft many and small limbs, and by so doing it avoids all the disadvantages of the old system. But unless properly applied, it gives rise to the fault which the first method seeks to avoid - it raises the new top too high and makes long and pole-like branches. To obviate this difficulty, great attention is required.

It is impossible to fully describe the best method of shaping the top, for each tree needs particular treatment. The illustrations, made from photographs, illustrate the practice. Fig. 1 shows a neglected tree twenty-five years old before operations are begun, while Fig. 2 shows the same tree after the grafting is done. There are no "stubs" - as the grafted extremities are called - over 1½ inch in diameter, and many of them are an inch or less. It will be noticed that the main stubs are approximately equi-distant from the trunk. This arrangement insures a rounded and symmetrical top, closely approaching the form of the original tree.

In order to fill up somewhat the lower part of the tree and to avoid too many pole-like branches, the most important secondary or side-limbs are grafted. But it must be borne in mind that the scions in a horizontal limb grow upright and not horizontally, and they must therefore be so placed as not to interfere with branches above them. For the same reason, a scion should not be set under another in the same stub; that is, the cleft in a horizontal branch must be made horizontally.

Perhaps a few general rules concerning the form of top and positions of stubs and scions may merit separate statement:

FIG. 2. - Top-Grafted Tree. Fig. i After Being Operated Upon.

1. Graft many limbs and small ones, rather than few and large ones.

2. From an inch to an inch and a half is considered the proper diameter of a stub in old tree.

3. Arrange the stubs approximately equidistant from the trunk of the tree.

4. Graft some of the most important secondary and side branches in order to retain the original height of top, and to supply foot-rests for climbers.

5. Select for the stub a smooth and straight portion of the branch.

6. If horizontal limbs are grafted, the stub should be so placed that the growth of the scion will not interfere with branches above it.

7. Do not graft in or near a symmetrical crotch. . 8. In horizontal stubs, make the cleft horizontally, that one scion may not stand over the order.

It is not to be expected that all the scions are to remain permanently in all cases. One good scion is usually enough after two or three years. We insert two in each stub for the double purpose of increasing the chances of a full "stand" of scions, and to aid the healing of the stub. It is always better to insert too many stubs than too few.

A frequent objection to this practice of grafting many limbs is its cost, for grafters charge by the piece. But the orchardist should not hire his grafting done. He should either do it himself or interest his boys in the operation.

This newer system of re-shaping a top is the easiest, safest and quickest way of changing an old tree. I have been obliged many times to regraft trees which had been grafted in the old manner, in order to save them from ruin. L. H. Bailey.