It is somewhat remarkable that, during the long period of time that has elapsed since the introduction of this plant, it should have received comparatively little attention from cultivators. A strong proof of this statement may be adduced from the fact that it has seldom been exhibited in a condition evincing either art or care in its culture. It would therefore appear that many are content to follow the old method of allowing it to assume its natural straggling habit, being satisfied with the splendour and fragrance of a few heads of flower as an apology for its long contorted legs. But this is a defect in its treatment as palpably inconsistent with the beauty of the plant as intolerable in the present improved and advanced state of horticulture. Under such a system of culture it can only be appreciated while it is in flower, and must, both before and after, be assigned to a secluded position, on account of its meagre and unsightly appearance. I may here state that it is not vague opinion but practical operation I wish to agitate, my remarks being deduced from the experience of a cultivator of distinguished repute, formerly gardener at Mill Bank, Edinburgh, whose finest plant, exhibited in Edinburgh, carried 317 heads of flower.

In selecting cuttings, such as have three or four shoots started at the apex should be chosen, as in some measure they already present the rudiments of a compact plant. I have found them to root readily out of doors during July and August. After they are well rooted they should be kept in the greenhouse, as in such a position they make considerable progress during winter; and as the plant grows continuously, if it be allowed sufficient pot room, progressive shifting should be attended to, so that no time may be lost. When the shoots have grown about 3 inches, their tops should be pinched off, thus giving an additional number of shoots, which will materially tend to render the plant seemly and promising. The following shoots may be permitted to extend to 4 inches, when the process of topping should be again repeated on all the shoots simultaneously, to induce uniformity by checking its naturally rambling habit. I may here state that as this plant at every stage of its growth is peculiarly susceptible of injury from often repeated saturation, much discrimination as well as caution should be exercised in studying its nature and requirements, and in order to insure satisfactory results, the entire management should be devolved on one individual.

Should the foregoing observations be attended to, by the month of May in the following year it will have assumed a fine green and clothed appearance. It may now be removed to a cold frame as a preparatory step to its being transplanted to the open air in June: for this purpose I prefer a place fully exposed to the sun, and sheltered from the prevailing winds. To guard against contingencies, the branches should be regulated and tied to stakes, as well as provision made for shading in case of strong sun. The compost which seems best adapted for the growth of this plant is fibry loam, well-rotted manure, and leaf-mould, in equal parts with a liberal addition of sand: these being well mixed, but not sifted, should be used at every subsequent transference to a larger pot, taking care at every consecutive shift to secure perfect drainage. I may remark in regard to shifting that the fresh earth should be packed so as to be equally firm with the ball of the plant, in order that uniform solidity may insure the regular absorption of moisture. The newly shifted plant requires less moisture after the first application, and weak liquid manure may be supplied at intervals of two or three weeks.

As the accumulating shoots progress, much compunction may be felt in having to pinch off the tops, but if this system is not pertinaciously adhered to, ultimate success cannot be attained. If specimens of 18 inches in diameter be thought large enough, it will be necessary to desist from topping by the end of August, because if shortened after this time, they do not gain sufficient strength to produce large heads of flower the following year. But should plants of 4 feet in diameter, to produce from 300 to 400 heads of flower, be the desideratum, it will be proper to continue topping and shifting occasionally till the end of August in the following year, when the operation should be entirely discontinued. According to the system here detailed, a plant at this stage of its growth should occupy a pot 14 inches in diameter. The branches of the plant extending considerably beyond the rim all round, the lower ones from their own weight having become to some degree pendulous, these appearances render a final shift very requisite.

A pot of 18 inches in diameter will hold a sufficient quantity of fresh earth to enable the plant to form strong flower-shoots; and also by potting rather deeper than usual, the pendent branches are supported by being allowed to rest on the surface of the earth, into which they root freely, and become important auxiliaries to the principal roots. The final staking may be delayed till the middle of August, when all the main shoots should be properly supported. As the shoots grow rapidly for some time before they come into flower, the supports should extend a little beyond their tops, so that when the flowers are about to expand they may have the advantage of a tie at the neck: thus secured, they may be removed to the place allotted for them, and whether this be the parterre, veranda, or greenhouse, they will continue in flower for six or seven weeks, emitting a rich fragrance and exhibiting an appearance of beauty that is rarely attainable in any other pot plant. In conclusion, I may remind the readers of ' The Gardener' that the truth of the expression, "All that is very fair is very rare," is never more evident than when applied to the Kalosanthes coccinea.

Thomas Reid.

Chester.