It may be well to examine seedbeds or seed-rows in which seed was sown last month, as much of the ground may be found empty, and the failure may be made good before the season is too far advanced. In low-lying and cold localities much damage has been done by the incessant rains, and many seeds have perished. For want of time we have the past season been obliged to dig over much of the ground un-ridged, but where it has been done the difference is very striking. Where the ridges were forked down the land is like powder, but it is the reverse where it was turned over only. Young beginners on their own account cannot always adopt the same system advantageously as they may have seen practised elsewhere, neither can the same kinds of vegetables, fruits, and flowers be grown to the same perfection in some localities as in others; difficulties are also common in some places though unknown in others. Shortness of means, large demands in proportion to the extent of ground, shallow and poor land, insufficient drainage, and scanty supplies of water, are some of the worst difficulties gardeners have often to combat with, so the young beginner has to be cautious and use much forethought; neither must he be led away by reports, however favourable, from certain charters, as some things do excellent in some localities, and are worthless in others.

We have often been better advised by experienced growers in our own locality than by reports from different latitudes; but this does not mean that we are to underrate the reports of experienced men. Succes-sional sowings of Peas may be made at least twice during the month; earlier and later kinds may be sown at same time. Full crops of broad Beans may now be sown. Keep up successions of Turnips, Cauliflower, Lettuce, Parsley, Radishes, Spinach; and small Salad-mustard and Cress may be sown under hand-lights, and a mat thrown over when frost may show itself. We prefer small quantities of most things sown often to large quantities sown seldom. Stake Peas before they fall over their collars. Thin early-sown Turnips; they are best when thinned early, and. done at several times. Cauliflower, Cabbage, and any other of the Brassica tribe, may be planted out when ready. No plants should remain in the seed-bed till they draw up weakly. Keep surfaces well stirred among all early crops. Thin Spinach. New Zealand Spinach does well when grown under glass; but in most localities it does good service when sown in patches 3 feet apart on rich soil: a position where early frosts in autumn will not easily reach it should be chosen.

Beet may be sown on deep cool soil from second week to end of month or later. Carrots may now be sown. Short-horns may be sown closer in the rows than the larger kinds. The usual means to protect them from the attacks of vermin may be tried; some use gas-water (some time before the seed is sown), also sprinkle the surface with gas-tar, work lime and soot into the surface; but we have sometimes tried all these and other remedies and then miserably failed to produce clean roots. Manure is often blamed for causing vermin; but the finest Carrots for size and cleanness we have ever seen were grown here last season, and we learn that the ground was very heavily manured with rotten dung. The main crop of Celery should now be sown, if not already done. Hand-lights placed on a very gentle hotbed, using light rich soil for the seed, answer well. Sow plenty of Brussels Sprouts, Scotch Kale, and Savoys, all kinds of Broccoli, Cabbage, and any other autumn and winter crops. Some kinds of Broccoli, such as Walcheren, White Cape, and Granger's, may be sown as late as the middle of May, and later in southern localities. Veitch's new autumn Cauliflower is a useful acquisition.

Salsify, Scorzonera, Rampions, Chicory, and broad-leaved Dandelions may be sown towards the third week of the month and treated like Beet. Spinach Beet, where it is used, may be sown about the end of month.

Full crops of potatoes may now be got in. Jerusalem Artichokes and Seakale roots, if not planted, should be got in without delay. Rhubarb which has been forced under cover may be divided and planted in rich soil, 3 feet apart each way. Sow seed as formerly advised. Seeds of hardy herbs may now be sown, and the herb - ground overhauled. Some may be increased by dividing them. French Beans and Scarlet Runners may be sown in warm positions, but in moderate quantities, till next month; a frame for these crops is of great service. To keep up a supply of French Beans till they are ready for use in the open ground, a good breadth may be sown in a frame after the first crop of early Potatoes is lifted. A Mushroom-bed for summer supply may be placed at the back of a wall, and covered with straw or soft hay. Cucumbers for ridges, Vegetable Marrows, and Gherkins may be sown during the month, and grown in warmth till they are good plants; they may then be carefully hardened to fit them for planting out by the end of May. More Capsicums, Chilies, and Tomatoes may be sown in heat. Those growing freely may be kept near the glass, and be allowed plenty of air. All vegetables now forcing under glass, such as Potatoes, Carrots, Turnips, and Radishes, must have plenty of tepid water.

The lights taken off during warm showers will do much to help them. Asparagus-seed may now be sown, and roots planted; rows on raised beds are still generally preferred, and salt may be given to crops in active growth. Get all borders and plots arranged to proper bounds.

M. T.