As ground becomes vacant (much of which will be cleared of Potatoes, Peas, Cauliflowers, &c), it should be filled up with crops which will be in use during autumn and winter. Kale, Savoys, Broccoli, etc, which may have been planted thickly, with the view of lifting them, should now be taken up with their roots as entire as possible, and planted in their permanent quarters. Coleworts should be planted largely, and all space filled as well as circumstances will allow: large breadths of empty ground during autumn are not creditable. Sowings of Stone, Strapleaf, and other Turnips should now be made for winter supplies; Potato-ground levelled will suit them well. All the main crops of the Brassica tribe should now be well established, and the hoe or prong should be used freely among them as long as there is room to work them. If any are showing symptoms of growing too rank, they might be well trodden down, and the hoe used for surface-stirring afterwards. This is a good time to make a full sowing of Cabbage-seed; good sorts should be chosen which are not liable to run to seed: Red Dutch may also be sown as required.

A good store of Cabbage, placed a few inches apart on a nice border, to stand through the winter, are valuable for planting in spring - the middle of July being the season in the north for the main sowing, and three weeks later in the south; but a second or even a third lot will be of good service. When seeds are sown, it may be necessary to thoroughly soak the ground beforehand, say the night before, then sow next morning. Cauliflower-seed may be sown from the first week of the month to the third week. Three successions can be secured - first, forgrowing under handlights, plant protectors, etc.; second, to be pricked out in frames or potted into good-sized pots to prevent them being pot-bound; third, smaller plants pricked out on a sheltered border or ridge. Early Horn Carrots, Radishes of all sorts, Spinach (prickly and round), stand the winter well. Lettuce and Endive may be sown in quantity: plant out plenty of the latter for main autumn and early winter crops. Give abundance of water to Celery - a good mulching may do much to keep out drought and help the plants. If late crops are still to be planted out, the ground for them should be well soaked with water twelve or fifteen hours before planting is done, and all the roots the plants can carry should be lifted.

These late plantations are often of great value. Earth up closely the Celery which is now wanted for use: when it is wanted thus early, as is the case in many places, it should be brought forward in frames without check, when shade can do much to blauch it. The frames after middle of July can be at liberty for other things. Late crops of Celery should not be earthed up too early, but a little soil drawn from the ridges over the surface of roots will do much to keep out drought, the most formidable enemy of Celery. Thin Parsley, and plant out the thinnings for winter supplies. A ridged or sheltered space should be chosen to plant out a portion for protecting during severe weather. Keep Scarlet-runners well topped back; take off any pods which are running to seed, unless seed be wanted. This is now a good time to make a sowing of French Beans, to be covered by a frame in autumn. Portable plant-protectors are of great value for moving from one crop to another. Pits and frames emptied of Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Capsicums, etc, should not remain idle, nowthat the most of these crops are plentiful: outside plantations of French Beans or late Cucumbers in the structures might keep up supplies nearly to the end of the year.

If weather should be dry, it may be necessary to mulch Peas: grass mowings do well for this purpose, but when full of weeds they are objectionable. Salads of all kinds should be kept up in abundance by frequent sowings. Tomatoes should be thinned, topped, and watered; keep them secure against wind. Vegetable Marrows and ridge Cucumbers should be kept regulated and thinned; too many fruit should not be allowed to grow on them. A framework made over a portion, and covered with mats at night, might keep these in full vigour much later in the season than they might if exposed to early frost. Gardens are now generally less infested with weeds than earlier in the season, and where labour power is sufficient, they should now be very orderly and clean: seeding of weeds should not be tolerated, if possible. It is much easier to advise than carry out in practice: with plenty of labour at command, keeping and dressing is very simple. M. T.