A period of fine weather having been experienced (which we trust has been general), will do much to forward crops which were in many cases suffering from continued cold drench-ings. Weeds, too, were in some gardens having all their own way. The weather is always right for them. Seldom have we known an October more suitable for garden-work of all kinds; and the maturation of weeds, we observe, among cottagers' plots and on farming land, has been very prevalent. In grass-land we have found it a formidable operation to clear the park of Thistles, but in every case have made an effort to clear root and top. The allowing of such weeds as Thistles, Groundsel, and Dandelions to remain on the ground after they are cut over, is simply worse than useless. They ripen their seed, and it is wafted over the surface by the wind, and as carefully sown as if human hands had done it. Some gardens are not always free from objectionable practices. Where such weeds have seeded in gardens, it is well to trench deeply, so that they may be kept from vegetating.

But they are not always annihilated by burying: after many years' deep concealment under the surface, they may be trenched up again to sun and air, and grow as freely as if they had recently been sown.

Ground becoming vacant should be trenched or dug as deeply as may be desirable for the crops which are to occupy the land next year. We know no crops which do not grow well on carefully - trenched ground; and on such ground there need be little fear of drought or injury from stagnant moisture. Drainage is, however, a most useful agent in improving the land, as well as making the district a healthy one. The hoe should be kept at work among all growing crops - especially Spinach, young Cabbage, Lettuce, Onions, etc. A battered, wet, and close surface is an active destroyer of such crops. Dustings of sifted coal-ashes round the plants is good protection, and helps to prevent frost from throwing them out of the soil. Decaying leaves must be got rid of; they are objectionable in every sense. When Parsley is loaded with rough half-rotten leaves, a winter of much frost and wet is sure to do a deal of mischief. Last winter ought to be a warning to us, so that we may avoid being "caught napping." Give protection to Globe Artichokes by placing Fern-litter or dry ashes round the collars of the plants.

Crowns of Rhubarb, Seakale. Chicory, and Asparagus for forcing ought to be covered - not that they would suffer from frost, but to facilitate the lifting of them when wanted to place in the forcing-pits, etc. Besides, it is better for all plants not to be taken suddenly from frost to heat. All roots left in the soil, to be lifted as wanted, are better covered to exclude frost. This applies to Parsnips, Jerusalem Artichokes, and Potatoes left in the ground to retain the flavour of the earth: the so-called "new" ones especially are liable to injury from frost, and the drier they are kept the better. Cauliflower and Broccoli turning in for use should be looked over frequently, so that none be left in the frost. Pit-frames, outhouses, empty glass-structures (orchard-houses especially), may be turned to good account now. Endive, Lettuce, and all other tender plants coming into use, should have the aid of protectors. Young well-hardened plants for spring use will take little harm if the ground on which they are growing is dry and healthy. Ashes may be strewn along the rows of Peas and Beans which have been recently sown and are vegetating. More Peas may be sown on a border this month if there are not other means of raising them under protection.

Earth - up Celery when weather allows: use litter or Fern as protection during severe frost, but it should be taken off as soon as a thaw sets in. A quantity of Celery, Leeks, and similar vegetables may be heeled in for use by the rubbish-heap, - and labour may then be saved in making the littery covering as orderly as in the well-kept garden. Wheeling of manure should have attention. When frost sets in, turn composts, make stakes for Peas, etc, repair tools, pick over Onions and all roots in store, clean sheds, and perforin every operation if weather prevents outdoor work from being forwarded.

Forcing of vegetables will now be general, and a regular supply can only be kept up by sowing and planting frequently. French Beans should be sown in pots (smaller than after the New Year) three parts filled with turfy loam (using proper drainage) every ten or twelve days, according to demands. The seed need not be spared at this season - they can be thinned out after they vegetate, and the plants earthed up with light rich soil as they develop: a forcing heat of 60° is suitable at night. Sun-heat may always rise higher by 15°. Damping of the stems is often experienced when a moist atmosphere is kept, accompanied by a low temperature.

Water should be warmed to 70° before being administered to plants in heat. Fresh air for French Beans may be admitted when warm out of doors. Osborn's and Williams's are two good forcing French Beans. Gentle hotbeds for Carrots and Radishes should now be prepared - mix leaves and manure well together till they are "sweet: " a very mild bed suits these. The Radishes may be sown between the Horn Carrots; and when the former are ready for use, the latter will be coming forward, and require the space. Crowding and absence of air would soon render them useless. Keep up supplies of Mushrooms, Asparagus, Seakale, Chicory, and Rhubarb as demand requires. Tomatoes for early work should be kept growing with plenty of light and air. Those bearing fruit should be kept thin of growths and cropped lightly.

M. T.