The work in this department will be increasing rapidly, so much will now require attention at once. Surface-stirring, planting out crops as soon as the plants are of proper size (or pricking them out into ground to keep them dwarf and sturdy), is an excelleut practice. Thinning of crops will require attention in due time. If they are allowed to become matted, much injury will be sustained. Parsnips, if not already done, may be thinned from 1 foot to 16 inches apart. We often have them 2 feet each way. This root, like Beet, is best for use when the ground is neither extra rich nor poor, but deep and free by working. Beet may be thinned to about a foot apart. The leaves should not be crowded when of full size, otherwise bad-keeping roots are the result. Another sowing may be made. Turnips may be thinned a few inches at first, to be gone over afterwards. They will not stand long at this season before running to seed; frequent sowings should be made. Carrots may be gone over twice or oftener, and the smaller early kinds left thick for drawing young. Onions may also be thinned by degrees, if there is likely to be any danger from grubs; but where there is no danger, and bulbs of a good size are wanted, 8 inches apart is a fair distance; but many are contented with 4 or 6 inches.

Dustings of soot and guano in showery weather are beneficial to growth, and strengthen the plants against vermin. Lettuces, if on good rich soil, may be thinned out to 1 foot apart each way, and the strongest of the thinnings planted in a shady position for succession; more seed should be sown to keep up supplies. Plant Scarlet Runners and French Beans in well-prepared soil; single rows of the former yield best crops, and are useful for ornament in places where anything unsightly may be objectionable. Edgings of them kept dwarf and topped yield heavy crops. It is years since we grew them on any other system. Sow Peas two or three times in the month, if required; if the ground is dry, the drills should be well watered before sowing, and mulching would do much to aid success; deep, well-manured soil, and the seed not sown too thickly, seldom fail to give plenty of good peas. Single rows dividing off other crops are economical and more manageable. Dwarf kinds, such as Tom Thumb, etc, may be sown on any spare ground, borders, etc. Spinach must now be sown frequently; rich well-moistened soil will keep the crop longer from running to seed. We often, to economise ground, keep up successions by sowing the seed between rows of other crops, such as Cauliflower, Cabbage, etc.

Sowings between fruit-bushes and Rasps, where ground is good, will do much to keep up supplies. Radishes, and all salads, will now require to be sown frequently. To keep Radishes crisp and mild, abundance of water is necessary, and a cool position. A little Endive may be sown towards the end of the month, if required early; but it runs quickly to seed till later in the season. Premature seeding at this season is caused chiefly by a check from drought or hand surface - battered soil. Sow more Cabbage and Cauliflower, and plant out any which are ready; the former 1 foot apart each way, and every alternate one to be cut out when fit for use. Where ground is plentiful such close planting is unnecessary. Cauliflower, if the ground is as it should be, may not have less than 2 feet each way. Drawing; drills for all the Brassica tribe is a good system; and when the hoe is pushed through among the plants, they get "earthing up" enough. This applies to Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, Kale, and other autumn and winter vegetable-!, which all should be planted before they get drawn up weakly, or become stuuted in the seed-borders. Where grubs are troublesome, a little wood - ashes placed in with the roots while planting is useful.

Puddling the roots and stems in soil, soot, and a pinch of red-lead mixed in water immediately before planting, is often followed by good results. Prick out Celery on a few inches of rotten manure, covered with an inch of light earth; protect from sun for a time, and shelter from cold winds. Water liberally as the plants become established; allow the roots to be placed in the bed full length. Early plants may be placed in the ridges, when they are ready; a check of any kind causes premature seeding. Celery ridges at this season are useful for many purposes. Keep ground well loosened between Potatoes, but not injuring the young roots. If the stems have come up very thickly, they may be thinned, and the tubers will be larger. More autumn and early winter Broccoli may be sown; in southern localities this may be done to the first week of June. Tomatoes should now be well prepared before planting out on walls, ridges, etc. (In the south of England they require little better positions than Potatoes.) Capsicums well established in pots may be planted out in favourable positions, but protected with hand-lights, etc., for some time. In northern localities a frame may be necessary all the season through.

Ridge Cucumbers, if not already sown, may be got in at once; they often do well when sown in light rich soil on the ridge, giving protection till all danger from frost is past. Gherkins may be treated in a similar manner. Basil and Sweet Marjoram may be sown at the base of walls or other sheltered positions. If the plants are established first under glass, they will be more useful. M. T.