In the vegetable garden, order, cleanliness, and well-filled plots are more general now than at any other time of the year; it is unfortunate when it is otherwise. We hear that rain has been abundant mostly everywhere, and many of the crops will be unusually luxuriant. Those which are to stand through the winter should be checked by lifting and replanting: there may be time enough for this, but it is a good system to have it done early, to allow the plants - such as Broccolis, Savoys, and Kale - to get a fresh hold of the soil. Let every space be filled up as it becomes vacant; Potatoes, Peas, Cauliflower, etc, when cleared off, will make room for many things - such as Coleworts, Broccolis, Kale, Savoys, etc. "When opportunity affords, prepare for winter Spinach: deep trenching is necessary, and a position sheltered from north and east is of advantage. Sow the seed in rows 1 foot apart, and thin out by degrees. Grubs often do much mischief to Spinach, so that careful thinning is necessary. Like Parsley and other vegetables in winter, crowding is attended by decaying leaves. Onions may now be sown; Tripoli is a useful kind: drills 1 foot apart on well-trenched ground, and soot or wood-ashes dusted over the seed, answer well. Sow hardy sorts of Lettuce and Endive for winter work.

When lifted and planted carefully on ridges they stand well; damp is much against them. Protection of walls and south borders are favourite positions of many for these plants. Cabbage may be pricked out when fit to handle, to get them sturdy for their winter-quarters. Sow more seed to secure a good stock of plants for spring planting. Cauliflowers for handglasses may now be sown in cold and late districts; in southern and favoured localities the third week of the month will answer well for sowing. Turnips may still be sown for winter and spring use: Strap-leaved and White Stone are good kinds for present sowing. Celery may be earthed up as wanted. Dust with lime to keep off snails; keep the stems compact, preventing earth from filling up the hearts. Late crops may still be planted, but in northern districts the produce cannot be expected large. Peas which are to give late supplies may require protection with nets: large numbers of birds will return from the harvest-fields and fall upon late Peas, and devour them greedily. Parsley should be well cleared of useless leaves and inferior plants. Chervil, American Land-Cress, and Golden Cress should be sown in quantity. Herbs should be taken in when dry, and hung up in bunches under cover where they will have plenty of air.

Leeks may be improved by earthing-up. Litter or manure of any kind placed between the rows is serviceable; they can hardly be overdone by manure and manure-water. Radishes should now be plentiful; they may now be sown in a larger breadth, as they will remain longer in good condition. Tomatoes must now be gone over frequently, keeping off all useless growths. Expose the fruit to sun and air, and give manure-water to plants bearing heavily. French Beans are easily injured by frost, and a frame and lights placed over a portion of the crop may prolong the supply. Hoops and mats may do much to save them and Scarlet-Runners for a long time. Ridge Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows, also, are the better of timely protection. Allowing them to become matted is a great evil, which should be avoided by timely and judicious use of the knife. Mushroom-beds may be made against a wall or on ridges covered with hay in the open ground. Plenty of horse-manure mixed with loam is necessary. Good beds can be had by lifting spawn from where Mushrooms are growing in the fields. Let no part of the garden suffer from the want of hoe or prong.

If weeds, by accident, should get ahead, the most effectual way of clearing them is by hand-picking, and following up with the hoe and prong: between crops the soil may be forked over, burying everything in the shape of weeds, but not injuring the vegetable roots. M. T.