It is worth while to discuss whether it is better to encourage strong vigorous growth on young Peach-trees under glass and early cropping, or little or no crops at all and hard pruning, in order to lay the foundation of a good tree, as is laid down as the rule by some. We advocate the former plan, and instance a case in our own experience.

Last March two Peach-houses were planted with standard and dwarf-trained trees, headed back until they represented something like a man's wrist with hand and fingers spread out, each finger being something like 6 to 9 inches long. Four or five shoots were started from each tree, the other buds being rubbed off, and every side-shoot was pinched hard back up to the middle of July, which caused the main shoot to lengthen fast and gross, the houses being kept close and moist at the same time - the intention being, we understood, to head those shoots half-way back at the winter-pruning. But it so happened that there was a change of management after that time. The first thing the new gardener did was to stop all those strong gross main shoots or branches, encouraging the growth of all side-shoots necessary to fill up without crowding: the houses were thrown open night and day. The season being unusually hot in a southern climate, the ventilation and evaporation were rapid, but plenty of river-water being at command, the trees had a liberal supply. The foliage consequently grew very large and green, the wood short-jointed and strong.

The result at the end of the season was, that those trees had covered the wire-trellising closely, with a radius 6 to 9 feet from the starting-point - a great deal of that young wood measuring of an inch in diameter near the base. The winter management was simple enough, - merely the undoing of all ties; there was no winter-pruning at all, or very little indeed; none of the shoots were shortened, and the trees were a little regulated and tied up again.

Now for results. The trees were studded with strong blossom-buds, but would they behave well on such young trees and on such strong wood? One of the houses was forced a little, and in the middle of May a heavy crop is swelling a second time. Having set thickly the whole length of the branches from the base to the points, both Peaches and Nectarines sticking like knobs on the -inch wood, as well as on the twigs, we expect them to carry the crop well to the finish. The trees are making the same vigorous growth, which we shall endeavour to ripen for another year's crop.

The chief magician in securing those results has been the water-pot, together with a hot sun and abundance of ventilation, and giving the trees liberty to extend in all directions. The question is, whether those trees will go on as they have begun, and by allowing them to extend so rapidly will they get bare near the base 1 They have not been disbudded in the usual way, only to a limited extent; but where young shoots were not wanted the growth has been pinched to two or three leaves, which will form spurs, and on which we shall also have fruit next year, as well as on the shoots. These spurs also help to maintain the vigour of the trees, and equalise and distribute their strength, and always secure a supply of young wood wherever wanted. Three trees, and ultimately two, will be amply sufficient for a house GO feet long, by 16 feet rafter. We shall only add, that after the fruit is gathered the wood will be thinned, and regulated for the ripening process. The Squire's Gardener.

[Will any of our correspondents explain why Peaches should not be pruned on the long rod and spur system, like a Plum or Pear, instead of being furnished, as is the case so often, with young wood, to be annually hacked out again? - Ed].