If the succession plants that have been shifted in the end of February, and in March, and that have been plunged in beds of fermenting material, such as leaves and tan, are dry at the root, let them have a good watering at once. They should get as much as will thoroughly moisten the whole ball. Now that they are rooting into the fresh soil, and the days are brighter, calling for more air, they require more moisture to enable them to compete successfully with the increased demands of light and air upon their system. The atmosphere, too, should now be more moist, in proportion as the days are bright. But avoid excess of this element either in the soil or air, more especially as the plants are not yet in full tide of growth. With increased sunshine the fermenting bed, if made up afresh in spring, is apt to heat over much. Whenever 90° is exceeded, let the pots get a gentle shake to cause an opening by the sides of the pots till the heat declines. Aim at a bottom-heat of from 85° to 90°. Towards the end of the mouth, the night temperature may range to 70° on mild nights, but be content with 5° less when cold and windy. Take advantage of sunshine by shutting up early in the afternoon, so that as little fire-heat as possible be required in the early part of the night.

Give the plants a gentle dewing overhead two or three times a-week at shutting-up time in fine weather. As soon as the heat touches 73° in the morning, give a little air, increasing as the day advances. Early - started Queens will now be swelling their fruit more rapidly: shut them up every fine afternoon, with sun-heat at 85°, for an hour or two, allowing it to decline to 70° by 10 p. m. Dew them overhead through a fine rose at shutting-up time - avoiding the crowns as much as possible - and sprinkle the paths, and occasionally the surface of the plunging material. When these are wanted as early as it is possible, let the forcing be chiefly done by day with sun-heat and light, and unless in exceptionally mild nights, 70° is high enough for the present. A careful eye must be kept on the soil to keep it moderately and regularly moist. Water when necessary with weak guano, or sheep or deer's dung water. Maintain a steady bottom-heat of from 850 to 90°: as soon as the young suckers on these are large enough to be removed, let them be thinned to two on a plant, and remove all gills that may appear on fruit-stems immediately they are noticed. Winter -fruiting varieties that started in early winter will be approaching maturity.

Until these begin to change colour, treat them as directed for the early Queens; but as soon as they change colour, keep them drier at the root, and give less air moisture and more air. Any of the young stock not found ready for shifting last month should now be attended to.

Pine Forcing #1

Queens that were started early, and that were past flowering in February, will now be progressing rapidly towards maturity. Keep them steadily moist at the root, and give them weak guano-water at every watering instead of stronger doses less frequently. Take every advantage of bright days, and shut them up early, causing the thermometer to range from 90° to 95° for a time; at the same time loading the air with moisture, and dewing the plants over through a fine rosed syringe. Start the fires in time to prevent the heat from sinking below 75° at 10 p.m. Those that begin to change colour by the end of the month should be kept drier at the root and have more air. It is a good plan when they cannot be removed to another compartment to class the earliest at one end of the house, so that they can be ripened under more favourable conditions than when standiug among later ones. Those plants which are now just showing that they have started into fruit, require to be carefully noticed, so that they do not at any time, especially during bright weather, get too dry at the root. If dry when it is noticed that they have started, give them a thorough watering, and afterwards just keep the soil steadily moist, with a moist atmosphere, and frequent dewings overhead, except when in bloom.

Succession stock that were shifted into their fruiting-pots in March will now be growing vigorously. Keep up the temperature for these, with as little fire-heat as possible, by husbanding sun-heat in the afternoons and evenings. The night temperature on mild evenings may range to 75°, falling to 70° by morning. When the weather is cold and dull 5° less will be high enough. Damp down the fires when the mornings show signs of a bright day, and start them in the afternoon just in time to prevent the night temperature from falling below what has been directed. Sprinkle the plants lightly overhead three or four times weekly in bright weather at shutting-up time, and keep the soil just moist, but not wet. Give air in the morning by degrees, instead of first allowing the temperature to rise very high and then putting on full air all at once. Reduce it likewise by degrees after 3 p.m. If these are at all crowded give them more room at once, for when Pines are I huddled thickly together it is impossible to make fine plants of them.

Winter-fruiting varieties that were shifted into their fruiting pots in autumn, and that have made a spring growth well filling their pots, should now be kept cooler and slightly drier, with the view of resting them for six weeks, and then starting them for late autumn fruit. Smooth Cayennes and Charlotte Rothschilds, that had well filled their pots with roots in autumn, can now be started, and they will succeed Queens that started along with them as the former named sorts take longer to come to maturity.