Presuming that the necessary number of early Queens have started in due time after they were subjected to increased temperature at the roots and in the atmosphere, the most of them should be nearly done flowering the first week of this month. True, the severe weather may have retarded their progress, but at all events they will soon be ready to push on rapidly. The night temperature, unless during very cold nights, should be kept as steadily as possible about 70°: and when shut up with sun - heat in the afternoon, 85° for a short time, with a corresponding amount of moisture in the air, will not be too high. It is of much importance that the soil be kept steadily moist - avoiding over-dryness on the one hand, and a wet, sloppy condition on the other. The amount of water required depends very much on whether the pots are plunged over hot-air chambers or in beds of leaves and tan; in the latter case they do not require nearly so much water. In proportion to the amount of fire-heat required, the atmosphere must be charged with moisture - never allowing the air to feel dry when the house is entered.

Syringe the plants about the axils of the leaves on fine afternoons, when the house is shut up, but do not carry this to excess, or it will cause a numerous and unnecessary progeny of young suckers. Use guano and sheep-dung water alternately when the plants are watered. Successional fruiting plants intended to start soon should now have a rise of 5° by night, say 65° to 70°, according to the weather, with a bottom-heat of 85°. As a rule, these make a growth before starting and yield the finest fruit of the season. Probably the severity of the season may have prevented many from getting the earliest batch of succession plants shifted last month into their fruiting-pots. No time should now be lost in getting this done. Plants that are somewhat later should also be shifted before the end of the month. If they show plenty of young healthy roots among the crocks and round the sides of the ball, they should not be allowed to remain unshifted for any length of time now, or they may start prematurely into fruit. We always prefer to partially shake out all plants when shifted into their fruiting-pots - preserving the roots as entire as possible.

Firm potting ought always to be practised in Pine-culture. The soil is generally full of fibre, and with loose potting it holds water like a sponge, and admits more air, especially when it does get dry, and the water and air rot the fibre much sooner than when firmly potted. If the soil is dry, we ram with a wooden rammer. It is of importance that the organic matter in the soil should be as little exhausted as possible when the strain of fruit-producing takes place, and this is best secured by firm potting. At one time when practising under the clearer sky of East Lothian, we put early Queens into 11-inch, and Cayennes and other strong growers into 12-inch and 13-inch pots; but in a dull moist climate we would never exceed 10-inch pots for early Queens, and 11-inch pots for Cayennes and others. We have proved these sizes give quite as fine fruit, and the plants yield more readily to the application of means for starting them into fruit. In plunging the plants, and presuming that full space can be given them at once, do not place Cayennes and Rothschilds closer than 2 feet each way : Queens will do at 22 inches. Nothing is gained by crowding but drawn and unfruitful plants that never yield fine fruits.

Give them a bottom-heat of 85°, and a night temperature of 65°. If the soil be dry at potting time, and the weather be March-like, water them in five or six days after they are potted. Keep the atmosphere moist, and in very bright days sprinkle the plants gently at shutting-up time, letting the heat run to 80° for a time. Do not give much air for a short time, or until the plants begin to grow, when it must be gradually increased and regulated according to the state of the weather. See former Calendars for directions about fruits that are ripening.