At this season watering must have increased attention; it may be done in the after-part of the day. The roots of all pot-plants should now be in healthy soil, with proper drainage; no stimulants, or the most judicious watering, will ever give health and vigour if the roots are not active and in wholesome soil. Better to have a small stock of plants and do them well, than be crowded up, with worthless kinds destroying what should be useful. Manure cannot often be mixed with soil in pots with advantage. Gross feeders may get advantage from it, but often the soil is made sour and unwholesome by it. Absence of air is what does the mischief. Airing must be increased to most kinds of plants, especially those of the greenhouse class. Cold currents should be avoided. To keep health, thorough cleanliness should be maintained everywhere. Look often to see that no insects are being harboured. Foliage of every plant should be free from dust, and a free use of the syringe and rain-water may be made; but see that no soil becomes sodden by frequent overhead drenchings. Fire will probably be in less request now, but frost must be kept out, and plants requiring a higher growing atmosphere must have it.

In greenhouses and cold pits there should be a stock of plants coming forward to supply the show-house. This structure may only be a glass case attached to an upper storey; but whether that or a gigantic conservatory, the same attention, to a greater or less extent, is necessary to secure a continuous display of bloom. Begonias (tuberous kinds), which make a fine display, may now be arranged in successions. They do well in turfy loam and sand - a little rotten healthy leaf-soil, or a trifle of peat, is of some advantage. Calceolarias and Pelargoniums now flowering may require manure-water. If there are not other things to crowd out the following, they may be in full growth for later supplies of flowers - Heliotropes, Harrison's Musk, Pelargoniums of the various classes. Show kinds coming into flower are very apt to suffer by green-fly, and can be syringed with quassia-water or fumigated as preventives. Lobelias, Fuchsias, Verbenas, Petunia's (single and double), Lantanas, Carnations in pots, Kalosanthes, Hydrangeas, etc.

There should also be (if only a small lot) Cockscombs, Balsams, Globe Amaranthus, Coleus, Salvias of sorts, Plumbagos, Cannas, and suchlike, to give the necessary display; but better only to grow a few of these well, than suffer the one lot to destroy the other.

Sow Cinerarias for main supply, also more Primulas if wanted. Calceolarias may be sown, but the best of these we ever saw were raised from seed in July. When such plants are stunted for want of pot-room (as they often are), they are worthless when they should be at their best. Prick out seedlings before they suffer in the seed-pots; shade carefully, but only to keep off sun when strong. All plants which have done good service during the past winter and spring should not be neglected now (as they often are by pressure of other work). They should make their wood, then be allowed to ripen it and set their buds : this applies to all forced plants. Bulbs may be planted out in the reserve garden. After they are forced they require at least a season to recover themselves, and some are never fit for pots again. Cyclamens may be planted out in frames, or placed in borders partially shaded. Camellias and Azaleas should not be taken too quickly outside from heat where they are under preparation for early work. The buds should be well formed before the plants are taken outside, and that should be done gradually. A house for such plants, or pits suitable, are desirable when they are to flower during autumn and early winter.

Hard-wood greenhouse plants should all be overhauled as they go out of flower, and shifted, if necessary, into pots a size larger, or have the soil and drainage partly renewed; the latter is of more importance than is generally believed. In the show-structure, climbers should be regulated, thinned to keep them from crowding, and made secure to their fastenings. When they hang gracefully and naturally they are very beautiful. As examples, Plumbagos, Passifloras, Habro-thamnus, Bougainvilleas, etc, with a rod like a Vine trained along the roof of a house, and the young growths hanging separately and loaded with flowers, must create admiration, but not so when they are crowded or tied into forms. In stoves there are many plants coming into flower, such as Gloxinias, Acbimenes, Begonias, Clerodendrons, Anthuriums, etc. They should have the best positions in the house as to light and air. An intermediate temperature, when more air and light can be given, will keep them longer in flower, and is better in every way. Moisture will be increased according to heat, and a free use of the syringe must be made.

Shade carefully, but not when there is no sunshine, though many are obliged to use whitening or thin white paint from May to September, and with tolerable success; but blinds of thin canvas or hexagon netting are best. Night-temperatures need not be more than 65° to 70°. Newly potted plants are the better of a little more. M. T.