Walking out with a bright child, once on a time, the writer came to a very beautiful stable built by a wealthy gentleman who prided himself on having everything of the most costly description. There were windows and door-ways, looking for all like an ordinary dwelling-house. " That is no dwelling-house," was the remark to the child. "I know it is not," was the quick-witted reply, " because it has not any chimney tops." Did it ever occur to many, as it did to this child, that a dwelling-house is not a full ideal of a house unless it has chimneys? and that if we would work out a perfect specimen of architectural beauty, the chimneys must not be forgotten. If we look at the work of our best architects, we note how much attention they pay to this character. And yet it will not do to overdo even this good point. We know a factory by its tall chimney, as well as a stable by none, and the just harmony must be considered in arranging the chimneys for a dwelling.

We give to-day a view of "Greyrock," the residence of D. J. Garth, Scarsdale, New York, in illustration of the point here made.

The chimneys are very prominent, and are no mean feature in the general beauty of the design. To some styles of architecture they would be too prominent, but in this particular instance the proportions harmonize particularly well with the whole, and the general effect is admirable. Particularly beautiful also is the effect produced by the spiral-like outlines of the Norway spruces in the background. The correspondence with roof-work of the house and the general style of the building, is as near perfect as landscape garden art can make it, and we doubt whether a better illustration of the unity and harmony between garden art and architecture could well be produced.

We love to present seasonable hints in this general way, as it is next to impossible to give practical details suited to seasons in North America, over the whole of which our readers are distributed. We might say, for instance, hyacinths, or other hardy bulbous roots that may not yet have been planted, may still be put in where the ground continues open. The beds of all such bulbs should be slightly protected with manure or litter, and be carefully watched for mice and vermin, which are likely to avail themselves of the shelter and feed on the roots. This might do for Pennsylvania, but would create a smile South where they would be in bloom, or North where the Ice-king rules. Still there are a few practical items which may be of service in many places yet, which we will venture to suggest.

Lawns that are impoverished by several seasons' mowing, will be improved by a good top dressing. This may be applied any time after the leaves are gathere'd up, and before the snow falls. Phosphate, wood-ashes, guano, or any prepared manure, is best for this purpose. Barnyard manure is objectionable, as generally containing many seeds of weeds.

Manure for flower-beds, borders, etc, may be hauled convenient to where it is likely to be wanted in spring; many spread it on at once; but if the soil is frozen very thick, it prevents the early thawing of the soil in the spring, and so no time is gained.

Very small plants in borders or on the lawn, or larger plants that may have been set out the past season, should be mulched with anything that will prevent the ground thawing, and so, the plant "drawing out." Most readers have done this in the fall, but there is good to be done by it yet by those who have neglected it till now. Keep a sharp look-out for mice under the litter, however, where it is wise from the value of the specimen to run no risk; brown paper, afterwards tarred, may be wrapped around the stems as far as the litter covers them.

Hedges that have not had their winter dressing should be attended to. If the remarks we have before made on hedges have been of service through the summer there will be very little now to do. We have said that pruning in summer weakens a plant, while pruning in winter strengthens it; and so, as hedges naturally get spoiled by growing vigorously at the top, and weakly at the sides, they should be severely summer-pruned at the apex, and winter-pruned near the base. Now will be the time to see to the latter, taking care not to make it too narrow. A good hedge should be nearly four feet wide at the base, and be cut into a point at the top.

In pruning roses, the fall blooming kinds, which flower on the new growth, may be pruned as severely as we wish; in fact, the " harder" they are cut-in the better. In this class are the Noisette, Bourbon, Tea, China and Hybrid Perpetual and Perpetual Moss. Without considerable experience, it is difficult for the amateur to distinguish these classes. The best way to get over the difficulty is to obtain the catalogues of the principal rose-growers, in which each kind is usually classified. Amateurs should pay more attention to the scientific - if we may so term it - study of the rose, and its classification and general management. No class of flowers is more easily understood, and no one affords so rich a fund of perpetual interest.

Greyrock: Homestead of D. J. Garth, Scarsdale, N. Y.

Greyrock: Homestead of D. J. Garth, Scarsdale, N. Y.