After one year's growth in pots or boxes, I set them out in a row about 2 feet apart, protecting them in the autumn. After another year's growth I select those that are the most vigorous and promising and work them on to natural stocks. Sometimes I take scions from those of only one year's growth, when they show good points. Dr. Van Mons, as is well known, used no cuttings from his seedlings, but kept them on their own roots, and encouraged their bearing by transplanting them every two years. I prefer to graft into advanced stocks - sometimes several on one tree - and earlier fruiting is the result. When I first began to interest myself in raising seedlings, I was willing that scions should grow slowly, as I regarded it as favorable to the development of fruit-buds. Hence I worked some on quince stocks. But I was not long in finding out that they needed, at least a few years of strong, healthy growth, to give them necessary body. One would naturally suppose that the first fruit-buds would appear on the older wood; and Mr. Field, in his book oh Pears, states it as a truth. But the first fruiting of seedlings is usually high up on the later growths of wood.

As to the influence of ringing, twisting, bending or pruning of the young seedlings, or grafts from them, to induce early fruiting, I have not met with success - in all cases the branches bearing first having never been touched. In the fruiting of seedlings, it seems to be more a matter of age rather than facilities or conditions, varying in different varieties; yet I would not deny that where they are growing rapidly on their own roots, or otherwise, some check would be favorable. But some (if not many) stocks are naturally slow growers, though not a few botanists believe that cross-fertilization most generally gives increased vigor.