Some cultivators are of opinion that the tenderness of our native grapevines is more attributable to want of energy in the root, than in the formation of a firm, well-matured vine. If in this there is any truth, then any variety, Allen's Hybrid, Adirondac, etc., may be grown just as successfully, and without protection in any section, as the Clinton, because the roots of the Clinton may be used to grow the other varieties upon by means of grafting. Root-grafting the grape is not a new thing, although when hardihood is increased thereby, one item will have been proved, in which as yet there are unbelievers. Many years since we practiced grafting on pieces of grape-roots in the house during the month of February, and packing them away for out-door planting in spring, in the same manner as with root-grafting of apples. We used pieces of roots from the common wild frost grapes, cut them about four to six inches long, and for our grafts or scions used well-ripened medium-sized wood, one bud to a graft, cutting it one inch above the bud and three inches below; this we inserted in the root; some in the usual way of cleft-grafting, and some by splice-grafting, tying with a strip of waxed cloth.

Late in spring, after the weather became well settled and the soil somewhat warmed, we planted out in the ground, so deep as to just cover the bud of the graft. This was our practice many years since, and we have since seen it repeated many times very successfully.

If roots should afterward start from the stock or graft when transplanted to permanent position in the vineyard, they can be easily taken off by removing the earth six or eight inches deep and using a sharp knife.