If you wish to raise the earliest vegetables, or get the best growth possible in any annual plant, be sure to use well rotted manure. The chemists may say what they please about the loss of ammonia and the gases, and what they say about the actual waste in letting manure rot before using it, is true enough, doubtless; but, setting that aside, practice has told me, time and again, that I can get a crop of peas four or five days earlier than my neighbors, in the same soil, by using manure a year old, and quite fine, when they use it almost as fresh as when it first comes from the stable. The fact is, fresh manure is like corned beef and cabbage - very hearty food, but requiring a strong stomach. Annuals of moderate growth, like something easier of digestion. As all old gardeners know this by constant trial, you can no more beat the value of rotted manure out of their heads than you can make an elder bush bear white berries by scolding it.

It is quite wonderful what a passion some men have for what they call pruning trees, and what I call murdering them by inches. Only pnt a knife or saw into their hands, and a tree before them, and you will see that it is only because they were not born Caliphs of Bagdad, that their neighbors have any heads left on their shoulders. Gardeners from the "auld countrie" - especially ail such as have served their time behind a wheel-barrow, are mighty fond of this sort of thing. One of these "gintlemen" was lopping off and utterly despoiling the natural ways of a fine linden-tree lately. When he was cross-questioned a little as to what he was about, ruining the tree in that manner, he replied: "Bless yer sowl! I'm only a littin' the hair intil iti" But, in fact, many a better gardener than this Paddy - many a man who has done as good things in the gardening way in Great Britain as can be done anywhere in the world - is placed in the same awkward fix when he comes into a country with a dry, hot climate like the United States. AH his life-long has he been busy learning how to "let the air in" to the top, and keep the wet away from the roots, till it is a second nature to him, and he finds it almost as impossible to adopt just the contrary practice when he gets to America * as it is for a Polar bear to lay aside his long, white, furry coat, and walk about like a tropical gentleman in his natural nankeen pantaloons and waistcoat.

He cuts away at his trees to let in the sun, and raises up his flower-beds to drain off the wet, when it is just the very sun and drought that we have too much of. No man can be a good gardener who will not listen to reason, and in a country where nature evidently meant leaves for umbrellas, take care how you snap your fingers at her, by pruning without mercy, and "littin' the hair in1"

If you find some of your transplanted trees flagging, and looking as if they were going to say good-by to you, don't imagine you can save them by pouring manure water about their roots. You might as well give a man nearly dead with debility and starvation, as much plum-pudding as he could make a hearty meal of. The best thing you can do is, first to reduce the top a little more (or a good deal more if needful), for the difficulty most probably is, that we have more top to exhaust than root to supply. Then loosen the soil, and water it if dry, and lastly, mulch the ground as far as the roots extend. This you may do by covering it with three or four inches of straw, litter, tan-bark, or something of that sort, to keep the roots cool and moist, so as to coax them into new growth. Watering a transplanted tree every day, and letting the surface dry hard with the sun and wind, is too much like basting a joint of meat before the kitchen fire, to be looked upon as decent treatment for anything living. If your tree is something rare and curious, that you are afraid will die, and would not lose for the world, and yet that won't start out, in spite of all your wishes, syringe the bark once every night after sunset.

This will freshen it, and make the dormant buds shoot out.

If you find any of your fruit-trees barren, from too great running to wood, about the first of June is the time to shorten back the long shoots, and clip or pinch off the ends of the side shoots, so as to force the tree to expend its substance in making fruit buds, instead of wasting every bit of sap in overgrowth.

Make war npon insects all this month, and especially at the end of it, as if it were the chief duty of man to destroy them (there is no doubt about its being the chief duty of the gardener). Tobacco water is your main weapon, and with a syringe or a hand-engine, you can, if you take them in time, carry such slaughter into the enemy's camp as would alarm the peace society, if there is one among these creeping things. Slugs on rose bushes, or the green fly on plants, will make their appearance by thousands and tens of thousands, as the weather gets hot, and the nights summery. The time to open your light artillery upon the " inemy," is very early in the morning, or just after sun-down - the latter the better time, by all odds. Find out whether they "roost" on the under or upper side of the leaves, or nibble away at the tender points of the shoots, and shower them to the tune of "Old Virginny" - i.e., strong tobacco water. If your plant is of a delicate substance, mind, however, that you don't give it a fainting fit as well as the vermin. Always make the tobacco water by mixing some rain water with it, for such plants, and, if you have had no experience in the matter,.dilute and use some on a single plant before you undertake your whole border.

After half a day, you can tell how it works, and act accordingly. What you want is, just strength enough to kill the insect, and not enough to injure the young leaves.

An Old Digger.

Seasonable Hints #1

If any planting out is yet unfinished, complete it at once, for after such a wet spring it will probably be a dry, hot summer, so that late planted things will have a poor chance of getting a good start.

Tuberoses, for flowering in the open ground, are best not planted until the last week in May, even in this location; and further north, June is quite early enough for the purpose. We have no doubt the frequent complaints of not being able to flower these bulbs is caused by planting too early. We never plant our small bulbs for the next season's flowering until the end of May, and usually have quite a number flower among those we considered too small for flowering.