As the season is now coming around for our preparatory spring operations, a few remarks on our manner of constructing hof beds might be of service to some of your readers who are only amateurs in such things, and who (keeping no regular gardener) are often sadly puzzled and befogged by the mystery that is too often attempted to be thrown around some of the most simple of gardening operations by some of our would-be "scientifics," whose " little knowledge" - praetically - proves often, not only to themselves, but their unfortunate auditors, "a dangerous thing".

Our manner of preparing hot-beds being on a large scale, we necessarily employ the most economical means to get at the result desired.

In the materials for the hot-bed there is very little choice; there is nothing better yet than stable manure, or stable manure and leaves from the woods, when we can get them, in equal proportions. As we never begin to use our hot-beds for seeds before the first week in March, it is quite soon enough to collect the materials for heating two or three weeks before; and as, at that time - the middle of February - the weather is often severe, it will much assist the fermentation of the materials if put in a shed or some place where they will be partially sheltered. This is worthy of attention, as I have often seen large quantities of the heating materials frozen stiff by a few days' exposure to a zero atmosphere.

When a sufficient quantity of the manure is procured for the purpose required, it is thrown in a heap and moderately firmed; the mass will have become heated throughout in from four to seven days, according to the state of the manure and the weather. It is then again turned to allow the escape of the ' rank heat;" twice turning is usually necessary to reduce the violent heat, especially when only manure is used, the mixture of leaves greatly diminishing the gross heat of the manure. When thus mixed, one turning is sufficient. The pits wherein we form the hot-bed are from two and a half to three feet deep, six feet wide, and of any length that may be required. The manure is put in to the depth of from eighteen to twenty inches, and moderately and evenly firmed with the back of the fork. The sashes are then put on, and the sun allowed to shine on them, so as quickly to "draw up the heat," which will be in about twenty-four hours from the time of making up the hot-bed. We then, but not before, put on from four to six inches of rich, loamy soil, when the seeds of tomatoes, egg and pepper plants, cabbage, cauliflower, and lettuce may be sown at once.

If proper attention has been given to airing, watering, and covering up the sashes with mats at night, the cabbages, etc., will be ready for planting out in the open ground by about one month from the time of sowing. But the tomato, egg and pepper plants should, at about that time, be replanted in a slight hot-bed, prepared as before, of about ten or twelve inches in depth; or, by careful covering up with straw mats, they may be preserved in cold frames; but the hot-bed is the safest, if manure can be had. These tender plants, of course, are not safe to be planted out in our district before the middle of May.

On all our hot-beds we use straw mats or shutters at night, straw mats being preferable. A board fence of six or seven feet in height, to shelter from the north and west winds, is indispensable when no such shelter otherwise exists.

[It will be perceived that a "Jersey Market Gardener" makes his beds in pits, which we consider far preferable to making them on the surface. The beds thus take up much less room, require less material, retain their heat longer, and in all respects require less trouble and care. - Ed].