From this work we take the following article by Dr. Mosher, a distinguished horticulturist, and an experienced grape grower:

As I think much experience and observation are required to arrive at the beat methods, I shall give only what has proved most successful with me. My vines, or a portion of them, have been planted nine years; the rows five feet apart, and the vines three feet distant in the rows. Roots, one year old from the cuttings, were planted after being cut close down to the crown. The first year they were allowed to grow without any other care than keeping the ground clear from weeds. The second spring, early, the tops were all cut down to two eyes, and a stake driven to each vine, six or seven feet long. One or two of the best shoots were allowed to grow, all others rubbed off. These two shoots, or canes as they are technically called, are tied up to the stakes when they have grown eighteen or twenty inches in length, and should be kept tied from time to time, as they advance in height through the second summer; little or no pruning will be required this eeason.

"The third spring, I would cut these canes down to two eyes; although some of the strongest might bear fruit the third summer, it is much better to let them grow another year, and become strong, before raising a crop. This season more attention is required, and they must be prepared to bear a good crop the fourth summer. The two most thrifty shoots must be selected the third spring and kept tied with rye straw, or some other strong and suitable material, to the stakes, as in the second summer. This year I pinch off all the lateral or axillary branches between the thumb and finger-nail before they become too large and woody - otherwise, if left too long, so as to require the knife, the determination of sap in that direction is liable to force out the sleeping eyes, which should remain dormant till next year. These lateral shoots should be pinched off to the height of four or five feet, or as high as is intended to prune the next spring; after that they may be allowed to grow, as they check the extension of the main shoots.

"The two canes of this year will be strong and vigorous and Boon rise to the top of the stakes, where they must always be strongly tied to prevent the effects of wind. About the first of Sep tember, and not much before, the extremities are pinched off to arrest their further elongation and growth - whereby the wood and buds become more perfectly matured. This finishes the work of the vines for the third season.

" We are now arrived at the fourth spring. The vines are old enough to bear a full crop, and we have two good thrifty canes ready for the knife; the old strings by which they were secured to the stakes are cut, and the tendrils trimmed off. The cane that comes off highest from the root is chosen to bear the whole crop, and is cut off about four feet from the ground, having from six to ten eyes according to the length of the joints; the other cane, which is often equally beautiful, is cut down to two eyes, and is generally used for cuttings. From these two eyes two more shoots are trained, as in the previous year. After all are pruned, and just when the sap begins to flow freely and the viues are most flexible, the bearing cane is carefully bent round in the form of a hoop, and tied to the stake with willow twigs - one at the bottom, one at the top of the circle, and the third fastens the extremity either to the stake or to the vine below.

"I am often asked, why this hoop or circle! The answer is, gradually to retard the current of sap or juice, that each eye may receive an equal share, and prevent its rushing onward to the last eye or bud, which is sure to gain too great a share and to cause a growth too exuberant if trained upward with the stake.

"The operation of tying is performed with much dexterity by experienced hands, and should always be completed before the buds are much expanded, as then they are liable to be broken off.

"All my hopes and expectations of a crop are now centered in this little circle. If the winter has not been too severe every eye will shoot, and in a short time show the blossoms, from one to three bunches on each. After the berries are set my vines are carefully inspected by the vinedresser, and from ten to fifteen of the largest and most promising bunches are selected, and all the others are pinched off, also all unfruitful shoots that may have pushed out from the circle. I know that many of our vine men allow every bunch to grow for fear of casualties. This I have proved to be an error. Ten to fifteen bunches, according to the strength of the vine, are more likely to remain on and produce more mature fruit than twenty or more. The vines must not be over-taxed - too heavy a burden can never be carried to the end of the journey - but a light task will be more perfectly executed.

"Soon after the grapes are set and about the size of common shot my rule is to pinch off the ends of the bearing branches, leaving four good leaves for the first bunch of grapes, and two leaves for every other bunch on the same branch - so that if there are three bunches there will be eight leaves to supply their wants. I have tried leaving these bearing branches to grow their full length without pinching them off, but I find they incumber the ground too much, without any perceptible improvement of the fruit After these bearing shoots have been pinched off, especially if done too early, the buds in the axils of their leaves will push out These I pinch off also when quite young, sometimes permitting one or two leaves to remain on them. The leaves on these laterals do not seem to subserve the wants of the fruit, like the original leaves on the bearing wood, which should be carefully preserved. At the fifth spring-pruning the vines will have the two good canes, as in the previous spring, with the addition of the old hoop or circle that bore fruit This I cut off as close down as possible to the uppermost cane, and the other two canes are managed exactly in the same manner as in the preceding year.

I never allow the old stock to rise more than six to ten inches above the ground - the lower they are kept the more healthy they will remain and be much more easily managed. Pruning the vine for wine requires a bold hand and much firmness of purpose, otherwise the old stock will get too high and become incumbered with too many shoots. It must be borne constantly in mind that one single bearing shoot or cane, having from six to ten eyes, will throw out as many bearing branches. From these ten bearing branches it will be easy to select from ten to fifteen bunches. These bunches, in any ordinary favorable season, may be made to yield one quart of good grapes, which will make, at least, a pint of wine. One acre of ground planted three feet by five will contain 2,904 vines. If each vine, then, yields one pint of wine only, there will be 2,904 pints or 363 gallons, from each acre. This is more than the average yield per acre - and for the reason only that we are too greedy - by overloading the vines we fail to obtain a reasonable quantity, as well as a good quality of wine.

"The above contains most fully my views, derived from practice and close observation, on the subject of pruning the vine for wine. If you think (hey contain any hints that will aid beginners, or others, yon are at liberty to make such use of them as you may think proper".