A correspondent of the Agriculturist thinks that people who live in the country have no excuse for being without good food for pot plants. Dead leaves and earth or mould from the woods are always attainable. My advice is mainly for dwellers in cities.

First, make your calculations a year ahead. You who have not been accustomed to make plans for gardening, in-doors or out, for a month ahead, need not be discouraged at this. The amateur and professional florist make their plans for a much longer time. There are very few cities where a bushel or two of dead leaves cannot be gathered in the fall from the many trees that line some streets, or adorn your own or your neighbors' yards; but don't be afraid of getting too many.

The older and more thoroughly rotted the manure is, the more valuable, and a bushel or two of leaves will go very far- much farther than you think. Put the leaves in a sheltered place, say against your back wall or fence, and put a board or two over the heap, to shed rain. Then to a bushel of leaves add a peck of loam or garden soil (sods are best), and a half-peck of common sand. Every washing day empty a pail of hot suds on the heap, and stir it as often as possible with a garden fork, hoe, or shovel, or anything else that will mix it up well. Of course, it will freeze up solid many times during the winter, unless kept where it does not freeze, but if you begin now, and stir as often as you can, by next fall you will have the whole thoroughly rotted down. Oak leaves do not rot as quickly as some others, maple, for instance.

My heap was begun last October, and you cannot now distinguish the least form of a leaf in the mass. Although out of sight, under a flight of steps at the back door, it is perfectly odorless, and is springy and spongy - just what is needed.

To recapitulate: A bushel of leaves, a peck of loam or sods, a half-peck of sand are all the important ingredients. Whatever you can add in the way of stray bunches of moss, or bones burned in the kitchen fire and powdered, is so much gain.

When ready for use, sift through your coal sieve (let it be a coarse one), and take one third of the manure and two thirds of the best garden soil you can get, and make your heap for potting. With very few exceptions all plants will thrive in this mixture, and your courage will not be damped by the formidable array of soils paraded as necessary in most works on flowers. Through the winter you will have flowers that will be the envy of your less energetic neighbors - Geraniums that are Geraniums, Bouvardias and Primroses that no greenhouse need be ashamed of - especially if you have a sunny window. It is of no use to attempt to have winter flowers without some system. Better have. none at all than the sickly specimens that disgrace so many windows from November to April.

I do not find in my horticultural reading much said about Geraniums for winter flowering; yet they will be much more satisfactory, if some of the better varieties are tried, than many other plants chosen. Two years ago I gave a lady friend, living in the country, two cuttings of Geranium - one a bicolor (salmon pink, shaded with white), and the other pure white. She has a little winter sitting-room, about nine feet square, with a window each to the south and west. The south one is devoted to flowers, and it isn't worth while to boast of Geraniums unless you could see hers. The first winter they were less than a foot high, the leaves so thickly set that the stalks were not visible, and the horse-shoe or zone on each leaf almost black. They each threw up one cluster of buds, then another, until finally through the greater part of the winter there were always from one to four clusters of blossoms. And such clusters! Nearly as big as your fist, and each floret as large as an old-fashioned cent.

The shape of the cluster was such that the flowers seemed to grow in trusses, like the Hyacinth, and hid the stem entirely.

The difference between the summer and winter blooming of the same plants was very marked. Out of doors they bloomed like nearly all Zonale Geraniums; one-half of the florets faded before the other half came out. In the window each cluster would keep about three weeks; if one floret dropped, another came out in its place, or the rest pressed together and filled up the gap. Cuttings from these did equally well last winter. They stood on the window-sill, close to the glass. The room had a wood fire, and was never hot - which last item, by the way, is a very important one for your own health as well as for that of your plants.

Don't let the thermometer get above 65 or 70° at the most, going down not lower than 45° at night if possible. You can easily accustom yourself to the temperature, and will be all the better for it. .