This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
" Started some seed in a hotbed, others in cold frame; had no second hot-bed for replanting, and the plants got spindling, and when it was warm enough to transplant in open air, they did not go ahead'to please me; but those grown in the cold frame went right along, and seemed to rather enjoy getting out of confinement."
Madison, Wis., Feb. 12 ,1868.
Mr. Editor : I have just learned from a gentleman, who heard it from a horticulturist somewhere, that the Black Naples variety of currants should be pruned annually in order to produce good fruit. I want to know when and how to prune. Is it by cutting out or off ? When I first obtained and set out the bushes, I was told black currants wanted to be let alone, but this gentleman says the crop can be more than doubled by proper pruning.
G. P. Delaplaine.
[The Black Naples Currant requires just the same treatment as other varieties of black currants - little pruning, except to* keep the bushes open and up from the ground. Unlike the white or red currants its fruit is borne mostly on spurs and two year-old wood, instead of on that of last year's growth. The best time to prune is immediately after the ripening of the crop;'-but it may be done any time when the knife is sharp and the temperature above freezing-point. Mid - winter, however, would be a bad time, as the ends of all the cuts would dry and crack, and induce disease and decay. Strong, rather heavy, but rich loamy soil suits the black currant best. On such soils it is one of the most profitable of crops. If not readily sold in market, the fruit can be made into a jelly that will always sell at a high price. The Black Grape and Black Naples are the two best varieties].