This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
The berries of the Bed Cedar when gathered, must be buried in sand or sandy earth for a year, then sow in light earth. If sown the same season they are gathered, they lie a whole year in the ground before vegetating.
The Spruce seed grows the first season. Dry the cones until the seed comes out; sow early in the spring in a dry border of light soil, or in boxes; shade in the middle of the day, when the plants are coming through the ground, and until they begin to make a second growth, when they will be hard enough neither to burn or damp off easily.
At page 295 (June number) of the Horticulturist, a lady correspondent asks a cure for the American Blight on a beautiful White Pine, which the editor answers as beyond control on largo trees. Not 20. Use soap suds made strong, and wash the whole of the body and limbs affected. The writer of this several years since saved several " beautiful White Pines" with this simple wash thrown up and over the parts affected with a garden engine, two or throe applications proving fully successful, no blight since appearing on either of the trees so washed. Make a suds of common soft soap, of about the consistency used in washing coarse clothes, and have faith. J. R. Latimer. - Wilmington, Del.
"Have faith!" It was our want of faith that led us to doubt the success of a remedy, that in Mr. Latimer's hands has proved successful.
Is there any effectual preventive of the peach borer! I have tried various methods which have been suggested for checking the depredations of this insect, but have found none that relieves the fruit grower from the necessity of going about at stated seasons, knife in hand, carefully inspecting the root of every tree, and destroying the larvae that have secured a lodgment there. (1) In Vol. VI of the Horticullurist, page 493, mention is made of a discovery which promised to be effectual; has this ever been made public! (2)
(1.) The only preventive we know of is the application of ashes or soot around the base of the tree in the spring. This is not wholly effectual, but is an aid. We lately saw in some paper an account of the application of a very thick whitewash, poured into a basin made around the base of the tree; this hardened, and kept off the insect.
(2.) All we ever heard of the discovery was in the notice you refer to.
(3.) Prune currants in the winter to have them large; keep the heads open, and the roots clear of suckers and superfluous shoots; give a good dressing of manure in the autumn, at least once every two years, and keep the ground clean and loose around the plants till after the fruit is ripe. This is something like the way to obtain large and fair fruit.
In pruning fruit trees, when it becomes necessary to remove large limbs, (from one to three inches in diameter,) how close should they be cut, in order to cense the wound to heel quickly and injure the tree as little as possible! Wm. Wells*. - Wyalusing, Pa.
Cut so close that the surface of the wound will be on a level with the bark above and below it. Such branches should be partly cut through both above and below with a knife before using the saw.
Will you oblige me by letting me know the names of the hardiest varieties of Azalias and Rhododendrons best suited for open culture in this State - varieties that will stand our winters without being protected! A New York Subscribes.
The Pontic and Belgic Azaleas are all so hardy here as to dispense with protection. In fact, they appear to be as hardy as our native sorts, nudiflora and its varieties. The Gatauobiense varieties of Rhododendron are the hardiest we have yet tested. Indeed, we believe them hardy enough in any part of this State, if planted in a properly prepared border and a suitable location. The Pontic varieties stand very well with us, and it is possible that the now Sikkim varieties, or species, will be hardier than any of them.
Do Dahlias vary materially in different soils, so that a variety first rate in one section is apt to be only second or third rate in another! (1)
I am advised that green-houses, unless in large towns, prove generally unprofitable. Is there not some way of fitting up for a moderate collection, without the expense of a separate regular green-house - as for instance the basement of a shop or office, well lighted on three sides - so that it would pay in connection with a country nursery! (2)
If the seedling root be better, as seems to be generally admitted, simply because it is seedling, why not the seedling stock also and for the same reason! (8.) F. K. Phoenix- Delavan, With:
(1.) They vary materially, both in soils and seasons, and their variations are obvious, both in form and colors.
(2.) You might keep a few half hardy plants in such a place. A good pit sunk in dry ground, with a few sashes so as to be lighted occasionally, would be better. It could be covered with leaves, so as to require no fire heat.
(3.) We are not sure that we understand the point of this question.