The inside finish consists of door jambs, casings, head trimmers, base, window stool, aprons, stops, picture mould, closet strips, doors, windows, etc. Scrape and sand out all defects and plane marks before putting finish in place. Straighten and gauge the door jambs the thickness of the partition or walls. Cut a gain 3/8" for the head jamb and cut the head jamb 3/4" longer than the width of the door for the gains. Measure down from the head jamb 1/2" more than the length of door. (Example - for a 6' 6" door, make the jamb 6' 6 1/2".) Square the jamb at this length and when put in place, keep it up the thickness of the finish floor. Fit the window stools between the jambs, leave 1/16" between stool and sash. Let the inside projection of stool extend over the outer edge of the casing the distance between the front edge of the stool to the face of casing. Case the double hung windows flush with the jambs. Case doors or casement windows 5/16" back from the edge of the jamb, around the opening. Dotted lines around the door (fig. 49) represent casing.

Cut the apron the length of the outer line of casing. Cope or mitre the ends and fit it under the stool in line with the casing.

Cut the approximate length of the base boards for each room. When finished in the natural or stained, select the grain to match in each room. With spacing rods get the length of base board needed for each wall. Cope the corner and fit to casing or base blocks. Cut the door and window heads flush with the outside edge of the casing. When there is a fillet used, let the fillet extend over the outer edge of casing 3/8". To get the length of picture mould, use spacing rods, then cope the corners and place them 3/8" from the ceiling, or it may be placed in line with the top of window and door heads. The regulation height for closet strips is 5 1/2'. For door stops, cut the head stop between the jamb and cope the side stops to the head stop and cut the bottom square to fit the floor. For window stops, use same method as for door stops, allowing 1/16" between stop and sash.

Inside Finish 52

Fig. 49

Straighten and square the back edge of the door to be hinged, set it in the opening flush with the jamb on the hinged side. Mark the front and top flush with the jamb, then rip and plane to the line, beveled back 1/16". When properly fitted, will have nearly 1/16" space on top and sides of the door. Set the door in place and mark with a knife for the hinges 7" from the top for the upper edge of the top hinge and 11" from the floor for the bottom end of lower hinge. If there is a third hinge used, divide the space between the top and bottom hinges. It is practical to make a pole with those markings to have all door hinges set the same.

For sash and casement windows, fit the hinged side and bottom, then mark the front and top to jambs. For double-hung windows, fit the top sash and put it in place, then plane off the sides of the bottom sash the proper width and set in place. Set a compass the width the top rail of the bottom sash extends above the rail of the top sash, and mark with the compass the bottom rail of the lower sash to fit the sill. Set a bevel square the angle of the sill, mark across, and rip on those lines.