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You can do more with a sand-motor than operate the paddle-wheel. It is about as powerful as a small electric-motor, and there are many pieces of toy machinery and other devices which can be rigged up and operated by it.

In the photograph of Fig. 345 you will see

A Practical Sand-Motor rigged up to run a toy trip-hammer and a toy grind-stone. When you have learned the way to connect up these toys, you will have no difficulty in devising other pieces of toy machinery; in fact, you can equip a miniature machine-shop.

Figure 347 shows a longitudinal section of the completed toy. You can make the base any size that you want. That for the model illustrated (A), is 6 inches wide and 22 inches long.

The Sand-Hopper (B) is an 8-inch tin funnel, costing 5 cents. Cut the hopper supports (C, Fig. 348), 20 inches long, bevel the top of each as shown in Fig. 349, to fit the sides of the funnel, tack the funnel to the beveled surfaces, and nail the lower ends of the uprights to the base.

Figure 347 shows a cross-section of

The Paddle-Wheel. Figures 350 to 353 show details of the wheel's construction. The wheel hub (D, Fig. 353)

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Fig. 346. - Sand-Motor Teeter Toy.

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Fig. 345. - Toy Machinery can be Operated by the Sand-Motor.

is a spool, the wheel ends (E) and the paddles (F) are of cardboard. Cut the wheel end pieces of the size shown in Fig. 351, the paddles of the size shown in Fig. 352. To assemble the wheel, tack one end piece to the spool hub at its exact center, and fasten the paddles to that end by means

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Fig. 347. - Longitudinal Section through Sand-Motor Toy of pins run through it into the edges of the paddles. Rule lines across the end piece so as to divide it into eight equal parts; then you will have no difficulty in spacing the paddles equidistantly. When the paddles have been fastened to one end piece, tack the other piece to the hub, and fasten it likewise to the paddle edges with pins.

For Shafting, use carpenter dowel-sticks 1/4 inch in diameter.

For Pulley-Wheels use spools. Fasten a spool pulley to each side of the paddle-wheel, slip a piece of dowel-stick through the spool holes, for a shaft, and support the shaft ends in screw-eyes driven into a pair of uprights (H, Fig. 350) fastened next to the sand-hopper supports (Fig. 347). Drive brass upholstering-tacks into the shaft ends to prevent them from pulling through the screw-eyes.

The Position of the Paddle-Wheel must be as shown in Fig. 347, so the falling sand will strike upon the ends of the paddles. A tomato can (/, Fig. 347) catches the sand after it passes over the paddles of the wheel. It is best to have a pair of these cans, so that as soon as one fills it may be removed, and the second can quickly be slipped into its place. The filled can may then be emptied back into the sand-hopper.

The paddle-wheel will throw forward part of the sand; therefore, to catch this sand, it is a good plan to make a cardboard chute similar to K (Fig. 347), and fasten its turned up edges to the hopper supports, and suspend its outer end by means of string run from it to the edge of the

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Fig. 348. - Cross-Section Looking toward

Sand-Hopper and Paddle-Wheel Fig. 349. - Detail of Hopper Support hopper. In the photograph (Fig. 345), the chute was removed so as not to obstruct the view of the paddle-wheel. A small proportion of sand will spill even with the chute in position. To keep this from running off the base onto the floor, it is a good plan to make a ledge by nailing the strips L (Fig. 347) to the base edges. An opening at one corner (Fig. 345) will provide an outlet through which to pour out the spilt sand occasionally.