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If you will carefully follow the instructions and working details given in this chapter, you will have in your possession after a few hours' work, the toy machine-gun shown in Fig. 408. This gun will fire twelve wooden cartridges in as short a time as it takes to turn the firing-crank twelve revolutions. It will wipe out an army of toy soldiers in no time at all. If you want to, you can organize a machine-gun squad and drill out in the open as the boys in the photograph of Fig. 409 are doing. A pamphlet on machine-gun drill can be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C.

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Fig. 408. - Toy Machine-Gun with Magazine that Holds Twelve Wooden Cartridges (See Chapter 17 (A Toy Machine-Gun)).

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Fig. 409. - Squad with Toy Machine-Gun. The Helmets are Made of Tin Wash-Basins.

Figure 410 shows a detail of the completed machine-gun, and the tripod mount. Figures 411 and 412 are longitudinal sections through the stock, barrel, and cartridge chamber and magazine, showing the hammer and firing mechanism. Figure 413 shows a longitudinal section of the gun-stock. This is the first part of the gun to prepare. It is made of three parts (A, B, and C). Figure 414 shows dimensions of the blocks required for parts A and B. After planing up these blocks square and true, and of the given dimensions, draw diagonal lines across both ends of block A, and across one end of block B, to locate the centers. Then with a 5/8-inch bit bore a hole through the center of block A from end to end, and another hole through the center of B for a distance of 7 inches. These holes are for the barrel (F, Figs. 411 and 417), a piece of brass-tubing 1/2 inch in diameter. The reason for boring the hole larger than the barrel is so that the barrel can be mounted straight even though the hole runs a trifle off center. This will allow for only a slight correction, so you must bore the holes accurately. The brass tubing used for the barrel must not be forced into a crooked hole, as it will bend easily, and a bent bore would make a poor gun. It is best to bore from both ends of block A halfway through the length. When the holes have been bored, round off the top of block A from end to end, as shown in Fig. 415, and shape off the top of block B at the end through which the barrel hole has been bored, so when blocks A and B are joined their ends will match. Two mortises must be cut in block B, one mortise down through the top as far as the barrel bore, the other up through the bottom as far as the bore. The mortises are located, and their sizes are indicated, on Figs. 413 and 415. Mark out the mortises carefully. Bore several 1/2-inch holes inside of the mortise lines, boring them as deep as the barrel bore, then cut out the wood between the holes with a chisel, and square up the mortises.

When blocks A and B have been prepared, fasten them together with plate C (Fig. 413). Cut this of the same width as the blocks, and 10 inches long, and lap it as shown. Handle E on the breech end is a wire coat-hook. Mark out side pieces D of the stock frame by the pattern shown in

Fig. 416. The easiest way to prepare these parts so they will be alike is to tack together two 3/8-inch boards, mark out the outline upon one board, and then saw out the two pieces at one time. Plane up and sandpaper the edges, before separating the pieces. Also, bore the holes shown in Fig. 416 - four 1/8-inch holes near the top edge, and four holes of the sizes marked, in the positions located. Use for these holes will be shown later.

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Fig. 410. - Detail of Machine-Gun and Tripod

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Fig. 411. - Machine-Gun before Hammer has been Drawn Back

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Fig. 412. - Machine-Gun with Hammer in Position for Firing

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Fig. 413. - Longitudinal Section of Machine-Gun Stock Figs. 414 and 415. - Details of Stock Fig. 416. - Detail of Stock Frame