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Every boy wants to belong to a drill-club, and if instruction from a man with military training can be obtained, there is no reason why a boys' club or class should not organize a drill club. The handbook Infantry Drill Regulations, which can be purchased for 50 cents, should be obtained as a reference book, and should be followed closely. Its instructions will be understood more easily after drill movements have been demonstrated by the drill master.

When the author was a lad, the neighborhood boys organized a drill-club, and commissioned him to make guns. These must have fallen far short of standard specifications, because there were no dimensioned drawings in the woodshed "arms plant" to work by; but, as the author recollects, the guns were fearsome looking weapons, with long tinfoil-covered stick bayonets, which, by the way, were "fixed" at all times - which is strictly against regulations, but unknown to the boys at that time. You can make better guns than these were, for this chapter presents all of the working details necessary.

The Simple Model of Drill-Gun shown in Fig. 444 has a stock cut in one piece. A pattern for this, ruled off into

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Fig. 442. - Making Prill-Guns.

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Fig. 443. - Squad at "Port Arms" (Equipped with Home-Made Drill-Guns and Wash-Basin Helmets).

squares measuring 1/8 inch each way, each square representing 1 inch, is shown in Fig. 445. To lay out a full-size pattern, draw a similar set of squares, 1 inch square, upon a piece of paper, and reproduce the outline exactly as it is shown upon the small squares. Saw out the piece, round the edges, and sandpaper the wood. This will provide

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A Pattern for Marking Out Duplicate Stocks. You will save time by marking out at one time as many of the stocks as you will require.

The Barrel is made of a broom-handle (Fig. 447). Cut a shallow groove along the top edge of the stock for the barrel to fit in, and fasten the barrel with screws and wire bands.

For a Trigger, drive a bent nail (C, Fig. 448) into the stock at the point indicated in Fig. 446, and for

A Trigger-Guard fasten a plumber's pipe-strap (D, Fig. 448) to the stock, covering the trigger.

For the Front Sight, bend a piece of tin into the shape of E (Fig. 449), for

The Rear Sight (F, Fig. 450) cut a

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Fig. 445. - Pattern of Stock of Drill-Gun Shown in Fig. 444 piece of tin of the shape shown in Fig. 451, bend it in half, turn up the ends, and bend down the tips of these. Tack the sights to the barrel in the positions shown in Fig. 444.

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Fig. 446. - Stock Fig. 449. - Front Sight

Fig. 447. - Barrel Fig. 450 and 451. - Rear Sight

Fig. 448. - Trigger and Trigger-Guard

The gun will now be ready for

Finishing. Give the stock a coat of stain or paint of a walnut color. Stain is preferable to paint. When the stain has dried, apply a coat of shellac, then a coat of flat varnish. Paint the barrel black; also the trigger, trigger-guard, and sights.

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The drill-gun shown in Fig. 452 is A Springfield Rifle Model. Its stock requires considerable more work to cut than the stock of the simpler model, but most boys prefer it for drilling because its lines more nearly approach the lines of the modern army rifle.

Enlarge the pattern for

The Stock and Barrel, shown in Fig. 453, in the manner directed for the other model's stock. Be careful in enlarging this pattern to locate the various points correctly. Before cutting out the piece, it will be well to check up your measurements to be certain that you have made no errors. The barrel end may be either a piece of 1/2-inch dowel-stick, or 34-inch gas-pipe, 6 inches long (B, Fig. 454). Bore a hole 2 inches in depth in the barrel and drive the piece B into it. Fasten with nails if a dowel-stick is used, or with a screw driven through a drilled hole, if iron pipe is used.

The Trigger and Trigger-Guard (C and D) are the same as those of the other model of gun (Fig. 448).