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If you will take the time to make a concrete lawn-roller like that shown in the photograph of Fig. 658, you will find no end of employment next spring, and in following springs. Owners of well-kept lawns have them gone over to roll out uneven places, caused by the action of frost, and newly planted lawns must be rolled, also, to make the surface level and compact. If you will happen round at the right time, you will probably be able to land the jobs. Take your chum into partnership. You will be able to cover twice as much territory in soliciting work, and you will need his additional fraction of horse-power to add to your own to operate the roller.

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Fig. 658. - A Concrete Lawn-Roller (See Chapter 34 (A Lawn-Roller)).

The Material Required will be as follows: One 2-foot length of 12-inch tile sewer-pipe {A, Fig. 659), one piece of 1 1/4-inch iron pipe 26 inches long (B), two pieces of 3/4-inch iron pipe 27 1/2 inches long (C), two pieces of 3/4-inch iron pipe 4 feet 6 inches long (D), two go-degree elbows (E), two street elbows (F) and two unions for 3/4-inch pipe (G). Pipe is known by its inside diameter. Three-quarter-inch pipe. is 3/4 inch in diameter, inside, 1 inch in diameter, outside. The ends of lengths of pipe C and D must be threaded.

You can get them cut and threaded at any plumbing shop, and you can procure the fittings there.

For the concrete mixture for the tile pipe, you will require about one wheelbarrow of crushed stone (1/2-inch or 3/4-inch), three-quarters of a wheelbarrow of torpedo sand, and one-quarter sack of Portland cement. You can procure this material from a builder in your vicinity.

A Lawn Roller 413

Fig. 659. - Detail of Parts Required for Lawn-Roller

In addition to the above, you will need some boards out of which to make centers for centering iron pipe B within tile pipe A, and for making a concrete mixing-platform.

Figure 659 shows a detail of all of the parts required for the roller. Figure 660 shows the tile pipe with the pipe axle-casing centered ready for pouring the concrete, and Fig. 661 shows

The Centering Platform. Making the platform is the first operation. Fasten together several boards with the pair of battens H, placing the battens so they will fit close against the sides of the small end of the tile pipe when the pipe is stood upon the boards. Nail the pair of blocks I to the platform so they will fit close against the sides of the pipe, also.

The next thing to do is

To Locate the Center for the Axle, upon the platform, between battens H and blocks I. This must be the exact center, else your roller axle will be off center and your roller will not run evenly. The center can be located by a pair of dividers, ruler, or piece of string. When you are absolutely certain that you have located the center correctly, cut a hole 1 1/4-inch in diameter for the end of iron pipe B (Fig. 664) to fit in. If you haven't an expansive-bit, bore several small holes and trim up to the larger diameter with a chisel.

The Center of the Flange End of the tile pipe is located by means of the crossed strips J and K (Fig. 660). Cut these strips to fit inside of the tile pipe at the center of the end, of the right length to rest upon the inside shoulder of the flange. Cut a 1 1/4-inch hole, through the exact center of each strip, then halve the two pieces together in the manner shown in Figs. 662 and 663.

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Fig. 660. - Tile Pipe with Pipe Axle-Casing Centered Ready for Pouring the Concrete

With the tile pipe placed in position, and the iron pipe axle-casing B fitted in the centering holes, all will be ready for pouring the concrete.

The Concrete Mixture should be made in the proportions of 1 part cement, 3 parts sand, and 4 parts stone. You can use a pail for measuring. Mix the sand and cement together, first, by shoveling the two over and over. Then add the stone and mix thoroughly, then add enough water to make a fairly sloppy mixture that will pour readily.

Pouring the Concrete. Pour the concrete mixture into the tile pipe, between strips J and K, and with a stick tamp the material down solid. Be careful to have all spaces between the stone particles filled; also to get the sand and cement between the stone and the sides of the tile pipe. Fill the tile pipe to the level of the under side of strips J and K.

The Initial Set of cement usually occurs within an hour's time after pour-

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Fig. 661. - Detail of Centering Platform Figs. 662 and 663. - Detail of End Strips for Centering Axle-Casing End Fig. 664. - Pipe Axle-Casing ing; but allow the concrete-filled pipe to stand for several days before disturbing it.

Removing the Tile Pipe. The tile pipe may be removed by cracking it off, but the author suggests that you leave it on, as it makes the roller larger in diameter, and will give it a smooth surface that will last a long time. When the tile does crack, you can break it off. The flange must be removed, of course, as soon as you are ready to complete the roller. This can be broken off, and the end chipped off level with the concrete, by the careful use of a cold-chisel.

The Iron Pipe Handle Frame is shown in detail in Fig. 659. In this detail you will find the relative positions for the pieces of pipe, and for the fittings included in the material list. Screw elbows E onto the ends of one of the pieces of pipe C; slip the other length of pipe C through pipe B, and screw street elbows F onto its ends. Screw pieces of pipe D into elbows E, and screw unions G onto their ends and onto elbows F.

Paint the Handle Frame to keep the iron pipe from rusting.