Figure 3 shows The Bench-Top. This is built to set over the front edge of the table (Fig. 2), and is held in position with a pair of iron curtain-stretcher clamps (Figs. 6 and 7). Make top A and apron B of boards 10 inches wide by the length of the table. Bore four or five rows of holes 3/4-inch in diameter through apron B (Fig. 4). Space the rows about 12 inches apart. To get the holes in straight rows, rule lines across the board on which to locate the hole centers. The holes are provided for wooden pegs G (Fig. 3). These pegs can be adjusted to the right heights and to the right distances apart, for supporting pieces of work of varied lengths (Fig. 2). Blocks C, nailed to the back of apron B at the ends (Fig. 4), should be cut of a thickness equal to the amount of projection of the table-top, so that when top A is nailed to the edge of apron B, and the two are slipped over the front edge of the table, blocks C will rest against the front table legs.

The Bench-Vise fastens to the left of the apron. It is built of pieces D and E (Fig. 5). Cut strip D 3 inches wide and 10 inches long, and nail it to apron B, then cut jaw block E 6 inches long and 10 inches wide, bevel its inner right-hand edge as shown, and nail it to strip D with the beveled edge turned in and projecting. Cut the pieces with the grain running as indicated. You will see by Fig. 2 how pieces D and E form a pocket into which to slide the ends of pieces

The Home Work Bench 8

Fig. 7

Fig. 6

Fig. 3. - Make the Detachable Bench-Top for the Table Work-Bench, like This Fig. 4. - This is how the Bench-Top is Built Up Fig. 5. - Detail of Vise Figs. 6 and 7. - The Ends of the Bench-Top are Clamped to the Table of work, and how the work is wedged in with a beveled block

F (Fig. 3). Block H (Figs. 3 and 4) is a

Bench-Stop to push work against when working on the top of the bench. Make a "V" cut in the right -hand end as shown.

In Fig. 8, a corner of the author's work-shop, is shown.

A Work-Bench With an Adjustable Vise. If you have






2" x4" x 2'-4"



" x " x "



1" x 4" x "



1" x 4" S



1" x 10" x 5-6"



1" x 4" x 4'-0"



2" x 10" x 5-6"



2" x 6" x 2'-4"



3/4" x 3"x 18"


Fig. 9. - Bill of Material for Work-Bench room for a permanent bench, this is the right kind to build. Details of its construction are shown in Figs. 10 to 17.

A Bill of Material is given in Fig. 9. Several small pieces in addition to this material will be needed, but you can probably pick these up in the kindling-wood pile. Maple makes the best top, but you will find, as the author has found, that a pine top is plenty good enough, and of course it is much less expensive. Be careful not to cut up the surface with sharp-edged tools, and the pine top will keep in good condition for a long time. You will appreciate a

The Home Work Bench 9

Fig. 8. - Corner of the Author's Work-Shop, Showing the Right Kind of Work-Bench for a Boy to Build.

soft wood top many times when you have occasion to drive in a nail for a temporary stop or for some other purpose.

If there is no lumber yard or mill nearby, get acquainted with a carpenter and have him buy the material for you. Or, if a new building is being erected in your neighborhood, go to the carpenter foreman and see if you cannot buy from

The Home Work Bench 10

Fig. 10. - Front View of Work-Bench him what is needed. Two-by-ten floor joists will be just the thing for the top planking.

The Framework is shown in Fig. 13, a front view of the completed bench is shown in Fig. 10 and an end view in Fig. 11. If you are less than 4 feet 6 inches tall, I would suggest that you make your bench 28 inches high instead of the height given in Fig. 11. This will mean cutting the legs 4 inches shorter than the given dimensions.

The end frames of the framework should be constructed first (Fig. 12). Spike cross-pieces B to the top of legs A, and nail rails C to the side of the legs 3 inches above the bottom. Test the corners formed by legs A and cross pieces B, and when they prove to be exact right angles, nail on the diagonal braces D. Cut these braces longer than is necessary, so that after nailing them in position you can saw off their ends flush with the sides of the legs. Having completed the frames, cut rails F and nail them to the legs on a line with lower rails C (Fig. 13). Then measure the distance between the frames at their tops, nail a board across crosspieces B to hold the tops at exactly the same distance apart as the lower ends, and after testing the end frames to see that they stand perfectly vertical, nail on the diagonal braces G.

Ten-inch stuff planed upon all edges usually measures between 9 1/2 and 9 3/4 inches in width. Therefore, three

The Home Work Bench 11

Fig. 11. - Left-End View of Work-Bench pieces placed side by side, with the front plank projecting 7/8 inch over the end frames, to allow for the thickness of apron E (H, Figs. 10 and 11), will be of just the right width for the bench-top. Make the projections over the ends of the framework equal, and spike the planks to crosspieces B. Drive the nail heads about 1/2 inch below the surface, so your edge tools will not come in contact with them. Figure 10 shows how the ends of apron E should be trimmed off. Nail the apron to the bench legs.

The Bench-Vise is the next portion to construct. You need an iron bench-screw like that in Fig. 15 for the vise. This can be purchased at the hardware store. You can make the rest of the vise by following the details of Fig. 11, 14, 15, 16, and 17.